c/head bolt

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dave friday
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c/head bolt

Post by dave friday »

hi,all no 7 bolt is broken about 1 inch from the head [got to spain with it in this condition!!!]i was about to change the head gasket and was checking none of the bolts were loose 50fb,the broken bolt is theaded to about 3/4 of an inch from the bolt head! any ideas? recomendations?
regards barry
I dont think, so I'm not[do I exist?]
1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]
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poshbuggers
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Post by poshbuggers »

Stud extractor I guess.

Some engineers penetrating oil, gentle heat and a quality head bolt extractor.

Take you time and when it moves work it back and forth, gaining a little extraction each time.

Last year I had to strip an engine from a 1930 Austin and 6 were broken. Using a little care and time it was possible to remove all of them without damage so be patient most of all.

'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
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dave friday
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Location: rambler de oria, near albox,almeria,spain

Post by dave friday »

Have used stud extractor a couple of times, both times no good as the the extractor itself broke. I broke an extractor on a 1933 Austin 7 cylinder head stud and had to drill the stud extractor and the stud out! Took me two weeks with a hand drill in around '65. Tried an electric drill but it wasn't having it. So good advice about taking it easy, thanks. Hopefully there's a good bit of the bolt above the block. Also the bolts are a good bit bigger than the Austin 7.

Take it you do have to take the head off first?! There isn't some short cut I've never heard of?

Barry
I dont think, so I'm not[do I exist?]
1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]
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poshbuggers
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Post by poshbuggers »

I would remove the head to do it if I were you. Much better access and better grip on the stud.

I take you point on the extractors. Took me 3 goes before I found one worth a toss!

As for Austins - glad to see someone else likes 'em. Ours is a '30 based ex-works special. Supercharged no less :-)

'90 Syncro Hightop. Ex-BUPA/Rowan ambulance with 2.0L GTI power and some curious windows.
)
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Andy syncro-nutz
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Nutz

Post by Andy syncro-nutz »

If you have access to welding gear!! Weld a nut as far down the stud you can and just try to tighten it a bit before you loosen it & if its tight work it back and forth using some releasing agent (it cools the stud & prevents expation) This has been very good with a number of engines ive done.
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dave friday
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80-90 Mem No: 5533
Location: rambler de oria, near albox,almeria,spain

Post by dave friday »

ok, got the head off[no 9 bolt snapped as i undid it,they were very tight] i got the bolts out with 2 nuts back to back[as the bolts are threaded to an inch from the top] the gasket is full of corroded holes,and the head has cracks between the inlet & exaust valves and the pre-combustion chambers on each chamber!!,any advice?
barry
I dont think, so I'm not[do I exist?]
1992 1600td [ jx ] syncro panel van[leisuredrive camper ]
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