2.0 fuel injection T25 Starts but won't run

[Smudge66blade]

Hi all I am after some help please

I have a 86 T25 with a 2litre fuel injection engine.
Yesterday it failed to start, or at least it will start and run for a couple of seconds then cut out. I had this problem once before and it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor located by the air box, this was replaced and I have another spare one so I have eliminated this as a problem( hopefully)
The fuel pump seems to be operating as it should do and it had a new fuel filter les than a 1000 miles ago.
It has fuel in it as I recently filled it up.
Battery is healthy.
No obvious damage or interference to engine.
Van was used last weekend for 100 mile round trip with no faults .
Been parked for a week.
Oil and coolant levels ok
No warning lights up
Van normally starts and runs perfectly and has been great
Has anyone got any thoughts on where to look or what to test to find the fault ???
Many thanks

[silverbullet]

Engine code would help for starters. DJ, MV or other? It will be a 2.1 as 2.0 were earlier and Aircooled on carbs, not efi.

[Smudge66blade]

Ok thanks

Where will I find the code ?

Regards

[kevtherev]

Directly under the breather tower.
The wiki has a photo of it

[AdrianC]

Where did it start life, and does it have a cat in the exhaust?

Disconnect the MAF, and see if it'll start and idle.
Disconnect the Temp II sensor (side of the thermostat housing - disconnect both if you're not sure, the other's the temp gauge on the dash), and see if that helps.

[Smudge66blade]

Thanks Adrian

Just to confirm mine is a 2.1 112hp engine

I went out today and I note that the dizzy cap and rotor arm are worn( I wouldn't have thought enough to make it not run but its possible)

I fired the van up and it ran for approx. 2 minutes and revved through to full revs and then cut out again and went back to firing but running.

I left the van for a few min's and then fired it up again and it ran for about a minute then cut out and went back to firing but not running .

Any thoughts ?

thank you

[mark]

its most likely to be the temp 2 sensor that's at fault easy fix and cheap you will need a new 0 ring and hair pin clip.........you will end up with a sleeve full of coolant........but before you spend any money make sure that all the electrical contacts in the engine bay are clean and making a good contact, including all the earths it will take a couple of hours......don't spend owt yet clean like aggy is your middle name..........report back and keep us informed of your progress

mark

[Smudge66blade]

Thanks Mark

Why do you say that ?

I'm still uncertain of the location of this sensor , I have googled it but can't get a grip on it ?

I will do the connectors tomorrow , I noted some of them are corroded and green

Regards

[kevtherev]

Temp II sensor is on the thermostat housing.
There are two on the housing the one you want is on the side.

[mark]

*****snap*******
they fail from time to time, mine failed and caused over fuelling and an expensive pile of spares...... when a clean and a tenner would of solved it . the green is bad and could be cause of the poor running
here's a pic offof the samba
http://www.benplace.com/engine/temp_sender_2.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

mark

[Smudge66blade]

Magic thanks

[Smudge66blade]

What happens with this sensor ?

Can I test it or should I buy a new one ?

Cheers

[ajsimmo]

When disconnected the idle should be significantly faster. A faulty temp II will not usually cause cutting out.

[kevtherev]

When disconnected the idle should be significantly faster. A faulty temp II will not usually cause cutting out.

Does a faulty AFM cause cutting out Andy?

[ajsimmo]

Well "it depends on the fault" is the obvious (and obtuse) answer! Not that helpful though, i know.
I have seen both happen - disconnect afm and some start and immediayely cut out and some will idle roughly and cough to a halt when revved.