Westfalia: RnR bed construction

[richlaz]

My van originally had a full width RnR bed, and no k1tch3n unit etc.

I'm converting the van into a full camper, with a side unit and k1tch3n unit, but unfortunately haven't got an original 3/4 width bed, so am cutting the full width bed base to 3/4 width.

I have also had to cut down the depth of the bed base (front to back), because the full width one is deeper, and it would have prevented access to the socket outlet/circuit breaker on the side unit.

Upon putting everything back together, and screwing the cushions to the hinges, I am having a nightmare trying to get the bed to lay flat. The back-rest is completely flat, but now the front kickboard/panel is stopping the lower section of the seat from sitting perfectly horizontal. The hinges are bolted to the van's body, and there's no height adjustment etc.

I believe the kickboard may be slightly higher than the one fitted to a 3/4 width bed. Is anybody able to confirm the height of their kick panel?

My idea was to cut approx. 10mm off the top of the kickboard, which would allow the bed to lay flat. But that would cause another issue... when the bed is in the upright/seated position, the bottom of the seat would be resting in mid-air, and not being supported by the kick panel? (really stressing me now... my next idea is to set the van on fire )

Pictures below:

[AdrianC]

<goes and checks>
356mm from floor to top of the metal finisher on the front panel of the underbed/seat cupboard. One other thing I notice in your pic - the board looks a bit far backward. It's more-or-less flush with the rear of the finisher around the slider aperture. I've measured it as 354mm from the upper edge of the board (not metal finisher) to the rear of the divider between cupboards and fridge/cooker. There's a slight cut-out in the side of the panel to allow easier access to the RCD/socket.

('88 German-market Club Joker with grey interior board)

[richlaz]

Many thanks AdrianC

The height of my kickboard, from floor to top of kickboard (including the edging strip) is 352mm, so 4mm lower than yours.

Also the distance from the face of the kickboard, to the join between side unit and fridge/cooker unit is exactly the same as yours, 354mm.

The front of the bed base is roughly flush with the rear of the slider opening, it may just be the angle of the picture.

I left out the cut-out on the right-hand side, just due to the way the base is constructed (the right-hand hinge and end panel is mounted slightly different to yours).

Therefore, as the front panel is more or less in the right place, the only thing left is the mounting position of the hinges, but I can't see how I can adjust this without physically bending them?

I first drilled the chassis fixing points (which are at the fixed height of the engine bay), and then drilled the wooden side panels where they lined up. The only way to raise the hinge, would be to bend the hinge upwards then re-drilling and bolting to the wooden sides?

Could I be really annoying and ask for the measurements (i.e. distance from floor and inner edge of front panel) of the two hinge fixing bolts on the sides of the bed base? Although I'm not sure if there's any differences between the 3/4 and full width hinges...?


E D I T:
One other quick question ... Do you also just have four screws in each hinge to hold on the bottom seat cushion? Doesn't feel very strong... If one was to sit on the edge of the bed (when flat) it would probably snap off!?

[AdrianC]

Could I be really annoying and ask for the measurements (i.e. distance from floor and inner edge of front panel) of the two hinge fixing bolts on the sides of the bed base? Although I'm not sure if there's any differences between the 3/4 and full width hinges...?

E D I T:
One other quick question ... Do you also just have four screws in each hinge to hold on the bottom seat cushion? Doesn't feel very strong... If one was to sit on the edge of the bed (when flat) it would probably snap off!?

I'll try and remember tomorrow.

[richlaz]

Many thanks - much appreciated

[AdrianC]

Could I be really annoying and ask for the measurements (i.e. distance from floor and inner edge of front panel) of the two hinge fixing bolts on the sides of the bed base? Although I'm not sure if there's any differences between the 3/4 and full width hinges...?

There's no scope for movement or getting it wrong. The hinge sits along the slope of the metalwork, with a lip going over the flat upper surface.

I can't see the hinge itself, because it's behind the side panels of the underbed cupboard. Somebody might have a pic of one dismantled.

E D I T:
One other quick question ... Do you also just have four screws in each hinge to hold on the bottom seat cushion? Doesn't feel very strong... If one was to sit on the edge of the bed (when flat) it would probably snap off!?

Yes, that's all there is. We lived in ours for a year and a half, and there's no sign of any movement at all in those screws. Obviously, we didn't leap up and down on the very edge of the bed, but it took plenty of normal use without an issue.

[richlaz]

Many thanks Adrian for the info.

I didn't think there was any movement in the hinges either, as you said, they are shaped around the edge of the engine bay so can only really go in one place.

To test, I un-done the two nuts (on the side panel) which were securing the hinge, pushed through the coaching bolts so they were out of the way, and there is actually a bit of flex in the hinge (without applying too much force). I was able to lift it slightly, to allow the cushion bracket to lay completely horizontal. (I think that where I first bolted the hinges to the chassis, the heavy weight of the hinges caused them to sit slightly lower than they should have been?)

It looks as if I may have to drill a new couple of holes slightly higher than the current ones (only by approx. 10mm). Just means I'll have a couple (more) redundant holes in the side panel, but at least they'll be covered by the metal hinge cover (hopefully the current and new holes will be far enough apart not to "join together" when I drill. In theory, as they're 8mm holes, as long as it's more than 8mm away from centre to centre, it should be ok)

The stress... oh how I hate "mechanical" work... I'd prefer an electrical job any day of the week

[sturtywurty]

How thick is your vans floor? Perhaps that's the diffirence.

[richlaz]

Thats a good thought. I still have the original plywood floor which if I remember correctly is around 20mm. I did fit new vinyl/lino on top of the original stuff, but that would have only added possibly 2mm max

[AdrianC]

Thats a good thought. I still have the original plywood floor which if I remember correctly is around 20mm. I did fit new vinyl/lino on top of the original stuff, but that would have only added possibly 2mm max

Mine's the original Westy.

[richlaz]

The floor to top of kickboard height of mine was 4mm lower than yours, so that should more than compensate for my new lino?

Might try and have a play about today and see what I can do