Stray Yellow Wire, needs a good home...

[Midge]

Hello the Forum

I can see a disconnected yellow wire kicking around near the relay/fuse board - it has a 'reet long' plastic terminal on t'end. Spookily enough there looks to be a vacant bit of yellow socket pretty close by, but the other wires going in don't look to have the elongated terminals.

I'm sure I read the yellow socket block is for the 'front wiring harness' so I'm possibly barking up the wrong tree. The weird end on the stray wire might be a shield, so it may be just a spare live for an accessory?

Looks like:



Can anyone advise where I should, errr, shove my wire?

Possibly related, I have no oil warning light at all - not even from the turnkey test.

There's reams of info on here about running tests from the sender ends of the DOPWS system but I'm struggling to find info on what's going on from the warning lamp end back. I think it's a yellow wire on a 14 pin connector running from the top-dash-pod but where it heads next...I dunno...

I'd like to find the simplest way to test the warning lamp LED before moving to the other end of the circuit, ideally.

Cheers

[Hacksawbob]

I think that is for the front fog lights and is empty if they aren't fitted, just a guess though. DOPW possibly the 12 pin dash connector block where it attaches to the curcuit board is corroded/broken.

[Midge]

Cheers Hacksawbob. The more I look at it the more it looks like a 'factory spare'.

As for the oil warning LED, I think my 1989 DG should have a 14 pin dash connector:



When I expose the dash-end connector I should be able to test-rig the battery straight to pin 3 (ground) and either pin 12 (HP warning) or pin 13 (LP warning) and each test should result in LED illumination.

Nothing should explode if I attempt this

...and one of the tests should also sound a buzzer?

E D I T TO ADD: I'm assuming this independent pod test is faking the required conditions for the lamp/buzzer - eg bypassing the engine-running/2250+rpm thing...

[MidLifeCrisis]

When I expose the dash-end connector I should be able to test-rig the battery straight to pin 3 (ground) and either pin 12 (HP warning) or pin 13 (LP warning) and each test should result in LED illumination.

Errrrr ... I don't think that this is correct????
Hopefully someone that has the 'buzzer of doom' system will jump online and explain - I only have the single low pressure sensor on the early system.
But ...... these systems usually work by the sensor grounding or being open (i.e. not connected) NOT by having 12V going into them.

Unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying - It seems from the above that you are considering connecting the battery negative terminal to pin 3 and the battery positive terminal to pin 12 or pin 13 - THIS IS WRONG !!! (or at least I expect that it is - it certainly doesn't seem right).

I'd suggest that you connect the battery positive to 'Pin 8 Plus, terminal 15' and then connect battery negative to pin 3, then connect either of the pin 12 or 13 to the battery negative also.

(Finally - I seem to recall that with the LP/HP system - that one of those sensors grounds to show good pressure and one is 'open' to show good pressure ..... someone that can say for sure will turn up soon I'm sure)

But hold off doing that until someone who knows what they are talking about turns up!!

[Midge]

When I expose the dash-end connector I should be able to test-rig the battery straight to pin 3 (ground) and either pin 12 (HP warning) or pin 13 (LP warning) and each test should result in LED illumination.

Errrrr ... I don't think that this is correct????
Hopefully someone that has the 'buzzer of doom' system will jump online and explain - I only have the single low pressure sensor on the early system.
But ...... these systems usually work by the sensor grounding or being open (i.e. not connected) NOT by having 12V going into them.

I think I see where you're coming from - rather than trying to target the specific LED I would be better off trying to 'power up' the whole dash pod? Trouble is that would require all other connections to be in place(?) and if the lamp don't light I'm none the wiser where the fault is.

I'd hoped to get straight to the LED from the dash connector without needing any specific conditions at the sender end - this might not be possible though.

But hold off doing that until someone who knows what they are talking about turns up!!

For sure, I'll not be jumping in with both feet until I get a bit more input! Mate, compared to me you're a guru, so if your advice is to wait for the cavalry then I'm taking it seriously

There's a raft of "ground this, then open that" advice regarding the senders - but an actual diagram of where the connector wires for dash pins 12 & 13 wander off to, that would be useful at this stage, given I haven't got a clue if the LED actually has any functionality whatsoever.

Thankfully I'm at work and the van is safe at home, so I won't be able to break it just yet.

[Midge]

I think that is for the front fog lights and is empty if they aren't fitted, just a guess though. DOPW possibly the 12 pin dash connector block where it attaches to the curcuit board is corroded/broken.

On close inspection the mystery wire is approaching the fusebox from a 3 wire mini-loom, having the yellow along with a brown going to crown earth and a black going to a pin on relay socket 6 - which is vacant and described as two-tone horn in the manual.

Perhaps the yellow goes to another of the relay pins, I dunno, but I have only a single tone on my hooter so it's no great shakes.

The dash pod connector was hanging out the back - plugged back in and hey-ho I have an oil light now