heater blower removal...again

[rallye69]

hi, read all the stuff i can on this , got dash out , but cant figure if you split casing in situ or take the whole housing out.
struggling to get 4 big bolts that go out to behind grill.

i know i am being abit thick but need some help

[RobH]

I sprayed penetrating oil, then waited and used a big tight fitting screwdriver bit in a long socket extension and some brute force. Luckily none of mine rounded or broke as I believe that's a common outcome. On refitting I used bolts rather than screw heads.
Some also have two screws from behind the radiator grill on the outside.

Good luck!

[rallye69]

cheers, the ones on drivers side are going to be tricky as they are behind heater hozes

[PetenAli]

I seem to remember that I split the casing in situ. It was hard because I had the clips on but it was also glued together.

Here's my thread and there are loads of others too plus stuff on the Wiki: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 7&start=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck with it - one of those jobs where you just have to hang on in there.

[nicq]

I did mine also without removing the complete heater.

[Tufty_B]

I second RobH and also you be try turning the screws a fraction of a turn clockwise (tightening a fixing can sometimes free it off) but be very careful that you don't crack the heater casing.
I've recently taken mine off and there was lots of evidence that it had been taken off by a previous owner.
The main problem that I had was getting the box out far enough to get to at the clips at the rear and separating it into 2 parts.

[rallye69]

piece of cake !!!!!
got all 4 screws out, well sheered 3 then cracked a bit of case then soaked edge with label remover ....
waited 15 mins , gave casing a tug & it comes apart very easily !

next step new fan !

[joyful]

I seem to remember that I split the casing in situ. It was hard because I had the clips on but it was also glued together.

Here's my thread and there are loads of others too plus stuff on the Wiki: https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 7&start=15" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Good luck with it - one of those jobs where you just have to hang on in there.

Help!! Fan heater down. Sort of whirred, clanked and came to a stop. Then started blowing fuses and not workig.. From everthing I have read it is not the most convenient item to access on a T25, so I tried the drilling through the front bulkhead and spraying with a release agent with extra long nozzle. Did manage to get the lubricant well inside the fan assembly (by drilling second hole to view and a long pipe torch). Anyway did not work so now I am faced with the long version....

I see that your man Dan gave you some help, does he live anywhere near Plymouth by any chance because the whole access process seems pretty daunting..,

[PetenAli]

I see that your man Dan gave you some help, does he live anywhere near Plymouth by any chance because the whole access process seems pretty daunting..,

Sorry - Dan is even further west than I am. Don't stress though - this is doable. Its just that when you have everything apart it can be a bit daunting if you've not done it before. My biggest problem in the whole saga was that one of my difflock switches was stuck in place. You don't have a Syncro so this wouldn't be a problem for you. I definately recommend Brickwerks for your new blower motor although whereever you get it I think it will be have been made by the same firm.

If you really don't want to do it yourself try Elvis on here - he's quite near you and I know he has done this job several times.

[joyful]

I see that your man Dan gave you some help, does he live anywhere near Plymouth by any chance because the whole access process seems pretty daunting..,

Sorry - Dan is even further west than I am. Don't stress though - this is doable. Its just that when you have everything apart it can be a bit daunting if you've not done it before. My biggest problem in the whole saga was that one of my difflock switches was stuck in place. You don't have a Syncro so this wouldn't be a problem for you. I definately recommend Brickwerks for your new blower motor although whereever you get it I think it will be have been made by the same firm.

If you really don't want to do it yourself try Elvis on here - he's quite near you and I know he has done this job several times.

Thanks P for the encouragment. Just a bit daunting really (reports of three days to get sorted plus finding problems on the way like frozen bolts, dodgy wiring and sticky plastic boxes that don't want to open).

On the other hand it is one of those wonderful T25 exercises in character building - on the other hand I do not have a garage to work in, so all in the street.

I will see if Elvis is close enough and what it might cost.

[joyful]

I was just thinking..... before pulling the w3hole front facia apart.....I have made an attempt at getting some lube to the blower itself, but it is still tripping the fuse and so is either sticky or shorting.

The fuse does not blow when I turn the fan to 1 and 2 (although fan does not work), but blows when I turn it to 3.

If it is just sticky, then maybe it needs a bit of a jolt. I have been using 20amp fuses (as the one in their when I found it) which keep blowing. Would putting a 25, 30 or even 40amp fuse make any difference at this stage?

[PetenAli]

Sounds like you should PM Elvis - I have forwarned him! Don't go putting higher rated fuses in - you risk setting your bus on fire.

If your motor is that far gone it is expedient in the long term to get the job done properly.

[ghost123uk]

Would putting a 25, 30 or even 40amp fuse make any difference at this stage?

As above = Don't do that

(It doesn't blow fuses on 1 and 2 because there is the 3 speed resistor in circuit on 1 and 2, but on 3 the power goes straight to the motor).

[slowcoach]

Wouldn't this indicate that's its just the resistor pack that is broken?

[ghost123uk]

Wouldn't this indicate that's its just the resistor pack that is broken?

In a word = No

With the resistor in the circuit (ie, switch on position 1 or 2) not enough current flows to blow the fuse. It's Ohms law