Hmmm -
Whilst the dash is out I would. ..
1 - clean the earth crowns
2 - check for early signs of rust and treat with Vactan.
3 - because I am a bit ocd, I would tidy up the looms and ensure all connectors are clean and secure.
Generally check and sort everything that is visible...
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF and 4 speed DT box.
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
Yep, mole grips or vice grips.
Just keep worrying at it!
Spray of WD40, Pluslube etc on threads above may help too.
If the fan is totally shot, the old fan can be removed without disconnecting the heater hoses - if you can get the plastic case separated. See Wiki article about the 11 clips.
Contrary to some models, mine had no screws from through the top grille, all 4 from inside plus 2 brackets onto the crossmember. Take the brackets off comletely, 2 nuts each.
A long phillips screwdriver is needed for the two on the steering column side and take off a hard plastic piece of s-shaped ducting that goes behind the brake servo.
1.9 DG WBX, 5 speed gearbox, standard steel wheels
pi quattro wrote:
My plan is to get to the fan and get it running again as per wiki. (wd40 etc)... I only ever want to do once
If you only want to do it once, change the flippin motor WD40 won't fix 30 year old knackered bearings and the motors are only about £35 from Brickwerks.
Last edited by ghost123uk on 19 Nov 2013, 09:34, edited 1 time in total.
Well I got the damm bolt out!
I tried all sorts of mole grips pliers, hammering old sockets onto it, in the end I took a drill to it and drilled through the bolt!
On to the next step....
Having a think about a new motor & fan but I hope that wd40 and a spot of oil might work.
Or manufacturing some sort of tube that I can pour oil down to lubricate the bearing? Lol
I'll second what ghost says - fit new motor assembly, the job is then done forever, for sure!
Another point, when I did mine a few weeks ago, the seized bearings were one problem but also the brass segments of the commutator where the brushes contact was so corroded that the fan still would not run after getting bearings freed. There didn't seem to be any way to access to fix this.
While the dash is off check:-
Resistor for fan motor
Fan switch - this was another problem with mine. They can be disassembled and contacts cleaned
Check with multimeter or 12vdc continuity tester that power is getting to fan on all 3 speeds - before puuing dash back!
Earth crowns and corroded connectors
Tidy any other dodgy wiring
1.9 DG WBX, 5 speed gearbox, standard steel wheels
Funny I posted exactly the same question on the German IG 16" forum a few days ago and was also advised to also:
Look at the windshield wiper mechanics,
consider installing those "double spurt nozzles" od whatever they are called in English (the thingies that squirt warter on the windshield) because it is easier when the dash is off
look for/take care of corrosion in the vent air intake area
look for signs of wear on the upper clutch pedal fixation
and possibly upgrading the power brake unit to a BMW one...
Cheers, André
'89 T3 GL syncro, 2.1 MV
'91 T3 doka syncro, 2.2 Subaru http://www.feine-tapeten.de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The thread starts as being a bit syncro specific but ends being relevant to all types. Hang on in there as it will be worth it in the end. Get your new blower from BW. Its not expensive and will now probably outlast your van.
1987 Westy Syncro 2.5 DJ (Courtesy of 025MOTORSPORT)
3 hrs later and it still there! I will get it though...
WD40 won't fix 30 year old knackered bearings and the motors are only about £35 from Brickwerks.