Big problems

[tattoojohnny]

Sorry, this could be a long one

1983 AAZ conversion RHD poptop

I've just had my van back after almost 3 years in a battle with the ex to get it back.
Started ok but the headlights dim, wipers slow and no horn. The aftermarket volt meter on the dash drops considerably when trying any of them so thought a bad connection/earth somewhere. While having an MOT to find out what needed to be done, all electrics seem to stop, nothing, no fuel gauge, no lights, but the temp worked. Got it home and the buzzer of doom came on while messing with the electric window switch (from a golf I believe). Dismantled and still buzzer of doom. Only way to stop it was remove the 3rd fuse in from the drivers side (whatever that is) I then disconnected the mass of hacked and taped wires that Stevie Wonder must have done while installing the oil pressure, volt and temp gauges and notice the ignition lights on. Van started ok but wont turn off now and have to stall it to make it stop. No idea what to look for or where to start so any help or guidance appreciated. Also when disconnecting the earth from the battery to save it draining with the issues above I got a spark from the battery tray when I touched it with the spanner.....is that normal?

[Hacksawbob]

Have a look here
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Fi ... copy-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the fuel cut off solenoid on the diesel pump may be sticking open available here but out of stock at the moment
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... iesel.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

either that or it is mistakenly wired so it has permanent live going to it, check with a voltmeter that it has 0 volts while the ignition is of, then 12V+ when key in first position.

[tattoojohnny]

Have a look here
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Fi ... copy-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the fuel cut off solenoid on the diesel pump may be sticking open available here but out of stock at the moment
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... iesel.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

either that or it is mistakenly wired so it has permanent live going to it, check with a voltmeter that it has 0 volts while the ignition is of, then 12V+ when key in first position.

Thanks Hacksaw.
I dont think it could be the solenoid as was working before I started stripping out the wiring in the dash. Gonna have another look at it today but its a bit of a rats nest so think it might be a dash out job. Now where's those dashboard wiring diagrams

[ghost123uk]

On a 30 year old van that has had lots of mods and wiring added, you find yourself in unknown territory. The only way forward is to tidy the whole lot up, removing any unused wires and using a test meter and knowledge to check the wiring that is actually supposed to be there. Wiring diagrams can be very confusing and I reckon if you can understand them, then you must have enough knowledge not to need them ! However, I suppose they have some use in identifying colour codes on the wires. Defo the first place to start is with the earth crown, and any other earths, then the multi pin plug / socket in the dash, above your right knee.

I got a spark from the battery tray when I touched it with the spanner.....is that normal?

It sounds very not normal to me, but I think I may be misunderstanding what you meant. You didn't mean you were holding a spanner and when it touched the battery tray you got a spark? The battery tray is part of the vans bodywork and is an earth, so you can't get a spark between your hand and an earth unless summat very weird is going on.

[tattoojohnny]

How very strange. Went back to the van this morning to start where I left off. Connected the battery, ignition lights now off, engine starts first turn and stops when turned off. Seems like some of the gremlins have left again oh and no spark from the battery tray when connecting the earth back up. I'll carry on disconnecting the rest of the dodgy electrics today and see how things go

[tattoojohnny]

Another quick update. Indicators working, headlights and sidelights working although dim, lights flicker when indicators on (in time with the indicators if that makes sense) horn working, wipers working although the same speed in both positions which is a little slower than expected, heater fan working but blows the fuse on speed 3....what could cause this? I've been looking at the headlight upgrade with the direct feed from the battery with relays but not sure what relays i need to buy.....any advice?
Many thanks in advance

[ghost123uk]

Sounds like you are suffering from the all too common semi seized up blower motor. Lots about this in the wiki.

Can you tell us what the battery voltage is (across the terminals) when the following is the case = engine not running, headlights on full, but nothing else on?

[tforturton]

I may be wrong, but the lights flickering on and off in time with a weak indicator flash, is usually a symptom of putting one of the bulbs in incorrectly (usually a side/brake light). Check they contain the right bulbs, and that they are seated in the sockets the way they should be. This is a common problem with amateur mechanics - I see it quite often when out and about.

[tattoojohnny]

Can you tell us what the battery voltage is (across the terminals) when the following is the case = engine not running, headlights on full, but nothing else on?

Sorry, I'm a bit of a novice, could you explain how I do this. I do have a voltage meter but thats as far as it goes

I may be wrong, but the lights flickering on and off in time with a weak indicator flash, is usually a symptom of putting one of the bulbs in incorrectly (usually a side/brake light). Check they contain the right bulbs, and that they are seated in the sockets the way they should be. This is a common problem with amateur mechanics - I see it quite often when out and about.

I'll check all the lights when it stops raining but am sure they are as they should be. While we are on the subject of lights.....these fit don't they ?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Osram-Night-Bre ... FYSRS67HQQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Hacksawbob]

Yeah but you could support a club 80-90 founder member and get them here http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/t ... grade.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[ghost123uk]

Can you tell us what the battery voltage is (across the terminals) when the following is the case = engine not running, headlights on full, but nothing else on?

Sorry, I'm a bit of a novice, could you explain how I do this. I do have a voltage meter but thats as far as it goes

Make sure the probes on the meter are in the right holes, ie black to "common" or "-ve" and red to "Volts/ mA" or "+ve". Set your meter to read "DC Volts" and on the setting that is nearest to 12 volts, usually 20 volts. Turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. Turn the headlights on full. Put the probes on the main terminals on top of the battery, red to +ve, black to -ve and note down the reading and let us know what it is.

Actually, take a reading as above, but before you turn the lights on and make a note of it, then turn the lights on and note the new reading and let us know that.

[tattoojohnny]

Thanks for that. Its just what I needed. I'm at work until 7pm today and tomorrow so it will have to wait until Monday now but I will post the results back as soon as I get them

[garyd]

Another quick update. Indicators working, headlights and sidelights working although dim, lights flicker when indicators on (in time with the indicators if that makes sense) horn working, wipers working although the same speed in both positions which is a little slower than expected, heater fan working but blows the fuse on speed 3....what could cause this? I've been looking at the headlight upgrade with the direct feed from the battery with relays but not sure what relays i need to buy.....any advice?
Many thanks in advance

Many of these symptoms (dim lights, slow motors, fluctuations with the indicators) suggest to me a case of bad earth or high resistance in the power supply. Try removing, cleaning (to bare metal) and refitting any earth connections you can find - primarily the main battery lead to the engine block, the earth link from the engine/gearbox to the body shell and the dash earth crown (ring of 6mm spade terminals on the door pillar by the fuse box). Check also the other battery terminal and any auxiliary connections there. Also the main terminal of the alternator.

[tattoojohnny]

Can you tell us what the battery voltage is (across the terminals) when the following is the case = engine not running, headlights on full, but nothing else on?

Sorry, I'm a bit of a novice, could you explain how I do this. I do have a voltage meter but thats as far as it goes

Make sure the probes on the meter are in the right holes, ie black to "common" or "-ve" and red to "Volts/ mA" or "+ve". Set your meter to read "DC Volts" and on the setting that is nearest to 12 volts, usually 20 volts. Turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. Turn the headlights on full. Put the probes on the main terminals on top of the battery, red to +ve, black to -ve and note down the reading and let us know what it is.

Actually, take a reading as above, but before you turn the lights on and make a note of it, then turn the lights on and note the new reading and let us know that.

Well its finally stopped raining and here are the results as requested.

ignition on and no lights = 13.4v
ignition on and lights = 12.9v and dropping
engine running and no lights = 14.3v
engine running and lights = 14.2v

Hope these make sense :S

[ghost123uk]

They do make sense and indicate that your charging circuit and your battery are in very good nick So that takes them out of the equation.

So, other than what sounds like a seized heater blower (mentioned further up if I recall) the other problems are likely to be bad connections, often but not always earth connections (or the multi pin plug also mentioned above).