The rear crankshaft oil seal on my Syncro is leaking.
What i'd like to know is how difficult is it to remove the gearbox? I dont have any lifting equipment to get the box off but it might be a good time to do the VC too.
Fearny.
Crankshaft Oil Seal
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Crankshaft Oil Seal
1985 Syncro Westfalia LPG
- Aidan
- Trader
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- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 19:21
- 80-90 Mem No: 742
- Location: Llanfyllin, mid Wales : )
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Ian,
front seal ?, ie you are getting oil in the bellhousing ?
petrol or diesel ?
You'll need at least one trolley jack and preferably two for a petrol (one to support the engine)
I've made an adapter for my jack which allows the job to be done one personed without breaking anything or anyone.
You also need two good tall axle stands to lift the back to give room to work.
The VC is inside the front diff unit which you won't be touching.
I'd think about going to brickweks if you haven't got the necessary equipment - though I'll happily lend you mine if you want to give it a go.
It's fairly straightforward, but awkward and frustrating, especially on a petrol as access to the starter motor is pants and the wiring loom a bit short in places and you'd be suprised at how much has to come off and/or be disconnected.
Personally I break into the clutch hydraulic circuit rather than remove the slave cylinder from the box which isn't the vw procedure, but I find it easier to do, and I empty the slave of fluid whilst the box is out and then bleeding the clutch does help to get rid of the dirty fluid that sits in the cylinder and corrodes and wears the seal. The bleed nipple cover makes a perfect seal on the pipe that you've disconnected, but clamp off the feed to the master cylinder to reduce the loss of fluid whilst undoing the joint.
Are you going to brickie's do on the 28th - be plenty of northern syncro peeps to offer advice etc..
front seal ?, ie you are getting oil in the bellhousing ?
petrol or diesel ?
You'll need at least one trolley jack and preferably two for a petrol (one to support the engine)
I've made an adapter for my jack which allows the job to be done one personed without breaking anything or anyone.
You also need two good tall axle stands to lift the back to give room to work.
The VC is inside the front diff unit which you won't be touching.
I'd think about going to brickweks if you haven't got the necessary equipment - though I'll happily lend you mine if you want to give it a go.
It's fairly straightforward, but awkward and frustrating, especially on a petrol as access to the starter motor is pants and the wiring loom a bit short in places and you'd be suprised at how much has to come off and/or be disconnected.
Personally I break into the clutch hydraulic circuit rather than remove the slave cylinder from the box which isn't the vw procedure, but I find it easier to do, and I empty the slave of fluid whilst the box is out and then bleeding the clutch does help to get rid of the dirty fluid that sits in the cylinder and corrodes and wears the seal. The bleed nipple cover makes a perfect seal on the pipe that you've disconnected, but clamp off the feed to the master cylinder to reduce the loss of fluid whilst undoing the joint.
Are you going to brickie's do on the 28th - be plenty of northern syncro peeps to offer advice etc..
I'd like to get along to Brickwerks and i'm going to make an effort but the missus has told me under NO UNCERTAIN circumstances is our westy to go offroading!
Ah well, so that lovely camping spot across that lovely field down by that lovely meandering river is a no-no then? Or that secluded little spot up that old track that winds up the hillside is never to be explored?
That poor VC, it'll be feeling very left out of things and probably give up the ghost through lack of use


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