No Idle.

[dearjohn]

Hi all,
Have a 1984 1.9 wasserboxer, and it refuses to idle. local mechanic blew out the carb jets etc, and checked plug leads and ignition timing and components etc. He did mention that the symptoms resembled an air leak,
but he could not find one anywhere. Its a pain at junctions, as you can imagine, and if you are approaching a turn off and go to change to first, for example, it will just cut out. You can hear the little solenoid clicking when you turn on the key, so I assume its ok. Any thought folks? heading to la belle france tomorrow week, so would like to get it sorted. Vheers, Mac.

[jamesandtheopenroad]

Does it idle when cold?

[itchyfeet]

not a fix but if you can't find the fault before you have to go try adjusting the throttle stop screw so it is like holding your foot on the accelerator slightly.

you can try using WD40 ( other cheaper brands available) and spray it around the base of the carb and inlet manufold once you get it 'idling' with the throttle stop screw adjusted, if there's a leak the revs should increase as the WD40 is sucked in.

also check the bypass cutoff valve is working, turn ignition on but do not start engine, then pull the wire off the valve and replace it, you should hear a click when it is replaced. if tis is not working or wire has failed the engine will stall at idle.

i'm sure there are other things also but nothing springs to mind.

throttle stop is the screw just below the black disc
bypass cut off valve is the cylinder shaped thing directly to the left of the throttle stop screw with a single connector.

[pionte]

yep does sound like an air leak...

common failures are, vacuum pipes, one to dizzy , one to pull down unit, also the big one to the brake servo ( left side of engine as viewed from back of van ) try wrapping a plastic bag around it to see if this fixes it.

[itchyfeet]

^^ you would like to assume a mechanic would have found it if it was an obvious vac hose failure but I suppose maybe not

[dearjohn]

Thanks for the great response, folk. Will have a go at it myself in the morning.!

[Zetor]

I had a broken wire to the fuel cut off valve, as itchy feet says touch the wire to the valve with the ignition on and it should click.

[blankville]

I am having the same issue with ours. I've changed the solenoid and the spade connectors and it's still cutting out. However, I am now thinking there is a fault in the wire as I get a click from cold but not a click once the van has been running- starts and idles fine from cold- it's when it's warmed up its cutting out!

Bamboozled!

Keep us posted how you get on and the best of luck

[kevtherev]

I am having the same issue with ours. I've changed the solenoid and the spade connectors and it's still cutting out. However, I am now thinking there is a fault in the wire as I get a click from cold but not a click once the van has been running- starts and idles fine from cold- it's when it's warmed up its cutting out!

Bamboozled!

Keep us posted how you get on and the best of luck

reads like the connections have been mixed up
the No 1 relay will turn off the choke and manifold heaters after about 6 mins.
IF the connection the anti diesel valve has been connected to this circuit then it will switch off the valve after 6 mins.
BUT thise symptoms are also a classic air leak
use the search for air leak diagnosis
Or search my posts for more info

[dearjohn]

^^ you would like to assume a mechanic would have found it if it was an obvious vac hose failure but I suppose maybe not

You would assume the mechanic bothered to look at it in the fist place. I am becoming convinced he didn't spend too much time on it.

Not the big pipe to the solenoid, took it off and blanked off the manifold nipple(Plastic bag over it and push back on the pipe) No change. Then when trying to see the linkage, the whole Carb. moved .
Never knew it was mounted to the manifold with a rubber adaptor, this seems perished around the base of the carb. Going to look for some silicone sealer and see what happens.