just started to do this & what a pig connecting all the breathers has turned out even with a pit, Am I missing something obvious?
cheers jim
tips on re-fitting a fuel tank!
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Re: tips on re-fitting a fuel tank!
darn wrote a whole spiel and the page reset
use silicon lube to help the connectors slip into the grommets better
connect as many of the pipes that go into the top as possible - first, ensure they don't get caught between the tank and the bodywork/frame when you offer up the tank. think the top 'balancing pipe' that goes between the two top grommets goes through a section of bodywork or a p-clip that was rusted solid on mine so had to leave that in there and apply to tank once in, like you say, fiddly to say the least.
check the fuel level sender is good before you put back together, there are metal strips that the 'float arm' rubs against which corresponds to a signal to the gauge from full to empty, naturally. but if there has been a history of small fuel topups there is a small section of the sender that rubs and the contacts disappear which makes them even less accurate. just saying might be worth a check so you don't have to repeat this pig of a job
make sure you have those small square rubber spacers on the edges of the tank that sit between the tank and the bodywork/frame or you'll have a rattle that will do your head in, and probably more corrosion/wear?
patience and many cups of tea later...
good luck
use silicon lube to help the connectors slip into the grommets better
connect as many of the pipes that go into the top as possible - first, ensure they don't get caught between the tank and the bodywork/frame when you offer up the tank. think the top 'balancing pipe' that goes between the two top grommets goes through a section of bodywork or a p-clip that was rusted solid on mine so had to leave that in there and apply to tank once in, like you say, fiddly to say the least.
check the fuel level sender is good before you put back together, there are metal strips that the 'float arm' rubs against which corresponds to a signal to the gauge from full to empty, naturally. but if there has been a history of small fuel topups there is a small section of the sender that rubs and the contacts disappear which makes them even less accurate. just saying might be worth a check so you don't have to repeat this pig of a job
make sure you have those small square rubber spacers on the edges of the tank that sit between the tank and the bodywork/frame or you'll have a rattle that will do your head in, and probably more corrosion/wear?
patience and many cups of tea later...
good luck
'82 TDI project camper
'85 AAZ Panel daily drive
'85 AAZ Panel daily drive