While playing around with the electrics this eve i found a wiring going under the rubber matt, and what i thought was just surface rust seems to be a little bit more. couple holes in the cab floor and the surrounding metal seems very thin. Also both cab steps seem to have been patched. but the passengers side has a hole in it. Finally bottom of the doors are also pretty rusty, oh and a hole in the sill at the rear of the sliding door opening.
Now im assuming there is no quick way, i just need to get the rust cut out and new metal welded in!? I have never done any welding before. I am however pretty good at using fibreglass, I have made ply laminated fibreglassed 18ft sea kayak.
Is it worth learning to weld/ buying a MIG welder? or just getting someone to do it?
be cheaper to get it done.
but if you fancy it then get tackled up and learn.
with regards to the door. be easiest to buy another door, they are cheap enough.
area behind slider , this is the C post and within thast area you will find the jp and the mounting for the trailing arm, there will be work to be done in there and you will need to cut the bottom of the wing away to get access, could be a can of worms,
all depends on how well you want it doing really.
mm
HI MM,
Thanks for the reply.
so the C post is the most worrying area. as for cheap doors, where can i get a cheap door? is it not cheaper to get the repair section for the bottom of the door?
As for how well i would like it done, ideally as well as possible. but cost is obv an issue. Any advice on a welder and associated kit? Cost etc.
Thanks again. been getting some great help on here.
Ben
a s/hand bare door would be from 30-60 you can get a rep section for the lower outer but not the inner, and they are triccky to do so you cant tell.
also i would imagine the inner area behind the rear 1/4 panal will be shot too?
as for a welder etc, may i leave others to advise you on that course
mm
Where is best too look for doors tho? I am down in deepest darkest cornwall. Rear 1/4 panel, do you mean the area in front on the rear arch? I think im going to strip most of the interior out on sunday so will be able to see a little more from the inside.
Im starting to think the solid van is not so solid! maybe buying a welder and learning to weld is THE way to go unfortunately i dont have a garage tho so would be doing it on the drive. Might be able to get the use of a workshop tho which would be good. Not even ordered the CV boots etc yet. maybe i should just strip it down totally!
Uhmmm lots of things to think about. Its MOTed till July so maybe run it as it is till then and then sort it all out.
Hiya Ben looks like you've got some work there . It's amazing what you can do on a driveway, you should be able to get a decent ish mig off flee bay for 50 quid or so . Then practice on some scrap metal. Do one bit at a time do you don't get bogged down with the scale of what needs doing, if you break it down into manageable bits that you can complete in a day it makes it all a lot less daunting. Keep us posted with how it goes.
Ill be down your way in June to check on progress ,so order me some good weather
Daz
My current plan is to strip out the interior tomorrow to check for any other hidden nasties.
Then i need to work out what i want to do, Its leaking from the windscreen corners seems pretty common, doesnt look like too much rust there tho so am hoping a new seal and clean up will work. Everyone talk about sandblasting but i don't have access to one, can i just use wire brush then a rust treatment. then fill and paint then fit the windscreen back? Is this an easy job? which can be done on the drive? which seal is best Just Kampers do a full set of seals for £114. or am i better to them get them singlely?
After i have made the van water tight, might need some other window seals too. I will look at sorting the holes out, either paying someone to weld it or giving it a go myself. I could probably take a week off work to get most of it done if i needed to.
The cills need to be painted underneath, which paint is best to use?
Might start a 'restoration' thread on sunday documenting all the work, starting with the strip down.
Use a wire cup brush on an angle grinder ( make sure you wear goggles or a screen of some type). That should be sufficient to move most of the crud. Make sure you do the work when it's dry and get some paint slapped over it as soon as you can .
Be a good idea to start a rebuild thread , not only to give us all something to read but I think it helps with letting you see what progress you are making ( it did with mine when I felt overwhelmed ) .
Daz
Hi Dazco,
Just been looking at your resto thread. Nice work and all done on the drive. Think i might need one of those big tarps you used.
New angle grinder might be in order! have always used wire brush on a drill in the past.
if you buy an angle grinder then buy makita or bosch etc NOT a cheapy, will last your life nearly
get a big gazeebo thingy, only 20-30notes and will do the job
as said full face shield unless you have a mate that does eyes
mm
Hi MM,
Yeah i only ever buy good tools now. Usually Metabo or Makita, i did however buy a Skill 6222 drill the other week after it had rave reviews £40 for a cordless style drill that has a cord thought it had to be worth a go as the Metabo i wanted was £250!!! Hopefully i can get use of a workshop to do THE work in otherwise it will be on the drive! hey ho.
Going to order some Rustoleom tomorrow. Matt black or gloss... uhmmm
My Aldi special (£18 i fink) lasted the whole rebuild and still being used, but it is heavy at the side of my Bosch grinder.
Taup was a cheap one off Ebay, a gazebo wouldnt have lasted on the drive anyway.
maybe buying a welder and learning to weld is THE way to go unfortunately i dont have a garage tho so would be doing it on the drive. Might be able to get the use of a workshop tho which would be good. Not even ordered the CV boots etc yet. maybe i should just strip it down totally!
. If i had known I could of got away with perspex I'd have done that instead 
