Front springs

[toastie]

Can anyone tell me what the front spring load capacity is on a syncro.? I recently bought a hydraulic spring compressor with a 1 ton load rating and it blew a seal as soon as the spring started to compress. It would be a great piece of kit if only....! Was I so far out thinking it would be capable??

toastie

[Aidan]

only person who will know will be Simon but iirc it's 950kg, probably 1200kg max load, if they are cheap chinese made compressors then not really suitable for commercial vehicle
I've always used the fairly cheap draper mechanical ones that only have one ear each end, find they work really well as slim and you can get them 120 + degrees apart, but you must use impact sockets or true hex sockets on them I found

[Simon Baxter]

Why do you need spring compressors on a Syncro?
Only time we've ever used them are for lidl springs, even then you can manage without.

[toastie]

Aiden: Thanks for the info (it is a cheap chinese unit-oh well, we live and learn

Simon: Silly me for using spring compressors, I'll throw that Bently repair manual away now! Aiden, why do you use spring compressors when it isn't necessary?

[max and caddy]

Can I have your Bentley? I used compressors on my pick up recently because it had no arms or subframe fitted..but normally not required unless the spring is mega boingey and the damper rod won't quite reach to get the nut on.

[Aidan]

you lot are obviously much stronger than me cos I can't change front springs or dampers without compressing the springs, on standard dampers where you have to pull the rod through the hole and the stuff on the top before starting the nut, it's a bit easier with OMEs and other gas shocks but even then I found it easier to compress the springs a little gives yourself some space to work and get it all aligned before letting off the tension, especially if you have fitted lift plates, just mho of course

[max and caddy]

The idea is to use the weight of the vehicle to squash the spring....but as my pickp is a mere shell at the front I decided touse clamps...was a reet pest getting the nut on as I didn't bother making a tool to pull on the shocker shaft...and everything was coverered in waxy clag as well!

[Aidan]

but if you use the weight of the vehicle or jack up the lca then the alignment of the rod is not readily controllable and it won't necessarily want to line up and go through the hole in my experience, with the spring compressed a bit you have some lateral play, that's what I mean about room to work, give is what I meant; it's a right faff trying to prize the damper sideways with something stuck through the spring whilst trying to pull the rod up etc....especially on your own

I'm with Bentley on this one

[max and caddy]

Ahh..there is a tool...or make a tool...that screws onto the shocker shaft...like an extension so it lines up and can be pulled into position via the grommet under the seats, then when in place and loaded up the tool is removed and the rubber, washer and nut put on.



That's the proper way...easy to make from a 1/2 inch tube and a old nut welded to it and ground smooth.


I found this out after nearly being reduduced to tears trying to get my top nut to go on!

[jed the spread]

Can anyone tell me what the front spring load capacity is on a syncro.? I recently bought a hydraulic spring compressor with a 1 ton load rating and it blew a seal as soon as the spring started to compress. It would be a great piece of kit if only....! Was I so far out thinking it would be capable??

toastie

Made this video ages ago on when I did my Westy it might help you get the idea of what the others are on about. I dont know if its the correct way to do it so its probably not but to be fair I have never looked inside a Bently or a Haynes manual but it seems to work on the few vans I have fettled with,

http://campervanculture.com/2011/02/lif ... t3-syncro/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did do my doka without the spring compressors but I found it harder.

Jed

[max and caddy]

That is the basic idea but the tool I'm on about screws onto the damper shaft so it can be pulled upwards and wobbled back and forth to get into the hole etc, also the damper shaft doesn't like to stay fully out I found.

[Aidan]

I have a tool for pulling the damper rod up, M10rivnut tapped fine on the end of a piece of M10 rod, works fine, but whole job nicer with a little jiggle factor imho, the spring compressors do have to be very compact, the ones with double ears don't work very well ime

[jebiga41]

That is the basic idea but the tool I'm on about screws onto the damper shaft so it can be pulled upwards and wobbled back and forth to get into the hole etc, also the damper shaft doesn't like to stay fully out I found.

I just use a piece of string tied to it to help guide it through and keep it extended but you have to work fast

[toastie]

I also used string and cable ties attached to the thread on damper rod!! Took me 2 sleepless night thinking why am I so tight and just let the man at the local garage rip me off before I came up with the idea!! Can't tell u how I felt when I finally got that nut back on!!

Thanks guys for all your input, the supplier of the cheap spring compressor is sending me a replacement free of charge, if anyone want s to buy it!

[Simon Baxter]

The damper is threaded to M10x1.
I use a long M6 bolt wound into a female brake union, also M10x1.
Easy, much easier than spring compressors.
Just get it started in the hole then put it on its wheels, prybar. It up, take off the adapter and pit the top bush, washer and nut in place.