Does this rear trailing armlook OK? Removal started

[Jonnyb416]

As above but I have a few questions in particular about it if possible please?

I poked a hole (seen just to the left of the spring) is this repairable with welding or simply, is a new arm needed?
The yellow rubber ring/gasket thing that the spring sits on is off center, is this normal?
And finally, whatever is between the yellow gasket and the arm is rather worn. Is this metal or what? When I poke it with a screwdriver it flakes off almost like slate!!



Any help/advice is appreciated.

Jon.

[mm289]

Hi Jonny,

the little pin hole on the left of pic is normal if that is what you mean?

The plate the yellow plastic ring goes on is the spring seat, it is metal and spot welded onto the trailing arm. It regualrly rotts on these and you will probably find the base of the bump stop cup is corroded as well.

Relatively easy repair if you or someone you know is handy with a welder or you can look for a 2nd hand trailing arm.

Have a look at my post here https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=105599 and it should explain a bit more for you.

Cheers,

MM

[Jonnyb416]

Thanks MM, I will have another look today but I'm sure it was a rusty hole; just the pictures doesn't show it. Your thread does help, I will consult my welder and also keep my eye out for some second hand arms.
Jon.

[jimpainter]

If te spring seat is corroded, Brickwerks sell a repair plate. It is excellent thickness/fit. I have fited a few now and not had problems with them.

[CovKid]

Or you can chisel/grind the old one off and make one.

[Jonnyb416]

Had a look at MM's work where he made one, seems pretty straight forward but it's this hole I'm worried about. Had a little poke today and it's defo got bigger (no pics just yet) the hole does look like its got a bit of shape to it, so hoping it's meant to be there.
Anyone any idea how big this hole should be? And what shape it is? Just to the left of the spring in the picture.
Jon.

[mm289]

To me it looks the same as pic 4 on my thread, in which case it is meant to be there.

If it is getting bigger than it should then clean up the area and put a blob of weld on, grind back, paint and your done

MM

[CovKid]

Pics on this page will probably help you:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=105599" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If its real crunchy beneath the round spring plate, tis possible to make a mount that covers the whole top. Check out the ones Fairywinds had made:

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... &p=7738162" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Providing you've got to the root of the rot (ie cut it out) and the plate is seam welded it should be fine. In an ideal world arm should come off and be grit blasted so you can see whats solid but thats not a fun job. Its dooable on the vehicle.

Left and right arms are in fact the same (ie in theory they could be interchanged (flipped over) except that the side facing up has a strengthening rib spot welded inside - supporting the spring plate on the load-bearing side and thats what actually makes them 'handed'.

In all other respects they are exactly the same unit. You could of course make your own strengthening rib. I only mention this in case anyone else reads this thread and wondered if the sides could actually be swapped.

[Jonnyb416]

Had another quick poke with a screwdriver and it has got a bit bigger, looks like it may go under the base plate. Still looks like the hole has some shape to it but just got bigger with rust. Jon.

[CovKid]

Well you have two solutions really. Either grind/cut back to solid steel with it still on the van and have the top welded with a complete plate and do a fine job of making it tidy including a repaint/underseal (easiest) or remove arm, grit blast it and see whats solid. The latter is more of a job. You could just weld the bits that are rusty but I wouldn't recommend it. MOT test could well frown on it unless its so tidy you wouldn't notice it.

Well, theres a third solution - find a better trailing arm but again thats a tougher job and the bolts that hold the arm on and go through the rubber bushes are often seized solid. I think I'd at least try tackling in situ if its salvageable. Welding on suspension parts doesn't go down well with most testing stations but if you do a good enough job on the finishing and as far as you're concerned its solid, opt for that.

I kept my holed trailing arm and intend to completely renovate it and keep it as a future spare. They're not cheap and I think only available S/H.

[waltraud]

[img]http://img.tapatalk.com/3e1f38d9-da18-fc3e.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b84b-e4c4.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b859-9046.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b867-0004.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b787-ae93.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b799-43ee.jpg[/img][img]http://img.tapatalk.com/1f595d99-b7ac-f1b0.jpg[/img]

This was mine with old and new spring locators shown, arm without locating plate on and finally a new one welded in primed and seam sealed before treating with honey and bacon fat.

[billy739]

i would say reason for spring being offset is its broken!

it should fit nicely roung the bump stop.

if the arm is solid everywher else then it can be repaired ,

a replacement arm is the best way tho but this may cause more problems - beake backplate, chassis mounts ect

worth checking the other side too

[Jonnyb416]

Thanks for that advice Covkid.
Waltraud your pics aren't showing on my phone but il check them on the laptop soon.
Billy you have a PM.
I will check the other side soon just have a very busy week in work ahead. I will get my welder to check it when he's next round. I'm sure he will know if it's fixable.

Thanks again everyone for your help.
Jon.

[CovKid]

Last point, the bump stop which sits on the circular plate invariable gets cut through by the bottom edge of the spring. Again this is a case of repairing/welding but for anyone who has never had work done on their trailing arms, jacking the vehicle up, removing the wheel and carrying out a careful inspection is a wise move. It should not be assumed that an MOT tester will spot any damage first. Its not easy to see unless you pull the wheel off and prod around. Good luck.

Personally I think the bump stop is made of too thin a steel anyway. If I were to make one from scratch I'd be sourcing thicker tube. Every one I've seen has some degree of chafing leading to the spring sitting at an unhealthy angle on a very crunchy mount. The trouble is, by the time it becomes clear that there is damage to the trailing arm, it can be quite extensive which is why a thorough inspection is advised. I haven't actually come across a trailing arm that only needed a new circular plate. On the positive side, it can at least be fixed, thats the main thing.

[Jonnyb416]

Thanks again Covkid. You've made me feel a lot more positive about this. Just when I thought the engine could soon be fitted as the bodyworks nearly done.... Up crops another problem. Ah well il get there