US spec Westfalia 110 inlet convert to UK

Post by **printmonkey** » 09 Jul 2012, 14:58

Afternoon all.

I'm planning to change the mains on my van from 110 to 220. The only thing I'm concerned about is the US Westfalia AC inlet. The European inlet is twice the size and I don't want to cut the bodywork, the square sockets sold at brickwerks don't look the same size.

Has anyone on here used the original US socket wired to a UK rcd with a re-wired cable from the site socket to the van?

I think a surface mounted socket underneath the van makes sense but I'd like to use the original socket if possible

Cheers
David

Post by **AdrianC** » 09 Jul 2012, 17:03

printmonkey wrote:Has anyone on here used the original US socket wired to a UK rcd with a re-wired cable from the site socket to the van?

The socket probably won't be rated for UK voltage, so it depends how you view that. Personally, I'd do it - but I'd do it with a short adapter cable to the usual 16A blue, so that you can easily buy whatever cable you need if it gets damaged on a site. I'd probably keep a spare adapter cable to hand, too...

Post by **printmonkey** » 09 Jul 2012, 20:30

AdrianC wrote:
printmonkey wrote:Has anyone on here used the original US socket wired to a UK rcd with a re-wired cable from the site socket to the van?

The socket probably won't be rated for UK voltage, so it depends how you view that. Personally, I'd do it - but I'd do it with a short adapter cable to the usual 16A blue, so that you can easily buy whatever cable you need if it gets damaged on a site. I'd probably keep a spare adapter cable to hand, too...

Thanks Adrian, that's what I was thinking. Looking at Go Westy's site they list a hookup cable at 10amps so I guess it's worth a try.

Post by **1664** » 09 Jul 2012, 20:56

Hook up cable should be rated at 16A since that's the size of the breaker protecting it at the pitch. Yes, some sites are rated less because they're stingy with the supply but not all of them are.

Post by **printmonkey** » 09 Jul 2012, 21:23

1664 wrote:Hook up cable should be rated at 16A since that's the size of the breaker protecting it at the pitch. Yes, some sites are rated less because they're stingy with the supply but not all of them are.

I've just double checked it and the cable is rated at 15A. But I guess the safest option is to persuade one of these to fit within the westfalia inlet housing

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=s ... ory_id=160" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks
David

Post by **AdrianC** » 10 Jul 2012, 08:20

One question has to be how much are you planning on running through it?

10A 110v = 1100w
16A 230v = 3680w

The fridge heater element's 85w. Our CTEK charger's a max of 150w.
What are you running from the mains socket? Our laptop charger's a max of 90w.

Unless you've got a fan heater or something similarly silly in there, I wouldn't worry too much. You won't see 16A through the connector, even if the hook-up's capable of it, unless you try and use it.

Maybe a kettle'll bring it close to the rating, but isn't that what the gas ring's for?

Post by **1664** » 10 Jul 2012, 10:15

The point (much like any electrical installations) is not to rely on the person/user to limit the load. In a couple of years someone else may own the van who goes winter camping, hooks up and plugs in kettles, heater, electric blankets etc. The object is to 100% guarantee that the installation cannot be subject to abuse above and beyond what it is capable of sustaining.

Post by **printmonkey** » 10 Jul 2012, 12:03

1664 wrote:The point (much like any electrical installations) is not to rely on the person/user to limit the load. In a couple of years someone else may own the van who goes winter camping, hooks up and plugs in kettles, heater, electric blankets etc. The object is to 100% guarantee that the installation cannot be subject to abuse above and beyond what it is capable of sustaining.

I agree that safety is important, I've asked the makers of the new Delta 6 US spec inlets to clarify the rating the new sockets are capable of. If they are up to the job I can have a cable made to the correct rating and all internal wiring and RCD etc brought up to UK regs.

Personally I can't see this van ever going back to the US so it makes sense to do the job properly. Ideally I like the hookups as factory as possible just for appearance really.

I guess if it's not possible a euro spec Westfalia socket could be used, but I rather not cut the bodywork.

If I hear back from The Skylight Guy I'll post the info here for future reference.

Post by **AdrianC** » 10 Jul 2012, 14:57

1664 wrote:The point (much like any electrical installations) is not to rely on the person/user to limit the load. In a couple of years someone else may own the van who goes winter camping, hooks up and plugs in kettles, heater, electric blankets etc. The object is to 100% guarantee that the installation cannot be subject to abuse above and beyond what it is capable of sustaining.

The van'll need a new 230v RCD or breaker or fuse or whatever, so downrate that to 5A (1100w).

Post by **1664** » 10 Jul 2012, 17:45

AdrianC wrote:The van'll need a new 230v RCD or breaker or fuse or whatever, so downrate that to 5A (1100w).

Don't follow you there; downrate what to 5A?. I have no idea of the voltage rating of the existing switchgear but it needs to be swapped if not rated at 230v. Why will fitting a new RCD (and circuit breakers if needed) downrate everything to just 5A?

Post by **AdrianC** » 12 Jul 2012, 20:50

1664 wrote:
AdrianC wrote:The van'll need a new 230v RCD or breaker or fuse or whatever, so downrate that to 5A (1100w).
Don't follow you there; downrate what to 5A?

The breaker.

I have no idea of the voltage rating of the existing switchgear but it needs to be swapped if not rated at 230v.

Indeed.

Why will fitting a new RCD (and circuit breakers if needed) downrate everything to just 5A?

Because if you put a 5A breaker in, it'll trip if anybody tries to use more than 5A, the same 1100w that the connector's rated for.

Post by **1664** » 12 Jul 2012, 21:50

oh rather than upgrade the rest..... Does rather restrict what you can use though. Wouldn't be enough for my kettle or fan heater I don't think.

Post by **AdrianC** » 13 Jul 2012, 06:56

1664 wrote:oh rather than upgrade the rest...

If the restricting factor is the connector, and there's a desire to retain that...

Wouldn't be enough for my kettle or fan heater I don't think.

We've been using a stove-top kettle on the gas ring quite happily, and we've probably only used our Eber half a dozen times in 14 months - even in the depth of winter - thanks to decent insulation.

Post by **1664** » 13 Jul 2012, 08:08

I see your point; 99% of the time I never use hook up as it's generally charged seperately and is very rarely worth it as the fridge uses next to bugger all and the kettle only gets used occasionally. Even when hook up is inclusive in the price I can't be bothered to even get the lead out. The one exception (for me) is the New Year meets at Llangollen where hook up is inclusive. Bluddy freezing and that's when the fan heater gets is annual outing. My van's insulated up to it's neck but it doesn't hold heat for long at that meet. I do have a propex but they eat gas (and leisure battery) so as the hook up's 'free' I use it.

Post by **AdrianC** » 13 Jul 2012, 08:52

For us, we'll always prefer hook-up, for the fridge - ours is lousy on gas, but works well on mains. The Eber isn't bad on petrol, on the occasions we have fired it up.

New Year camping for us has always been in a tent with the 2cv crowd - and, for that, there's always copious supplies of internal insulation... <grin>

We've seen plenty of people in big new fridge-freezer motorhomes using crappy electric hotplates ("free" electric) rather than their gas hobs, though. Bizarre.

Getting back to the original plot - I wonder if it'd be possible to modify the 'merkin hookup backplate to take a normal blue socket for the actual connection?

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