Rear brakes

Post by **sauce1001** » 12 Aug 2006, 03:29

I'm changing the cylinders and shoes this weekend, any helpful hints or advice greatly appreciated!

Post by **mushy9990** » 12 Aug 2006, 04:12

Get someone else to do it and go to the pub! regards, mushy9990

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 12 Aug 2006, 08:12

Do it yourself - it's hardly a difficult job!

Once you've removed the two 11mm headed bolts, if the drum won't shift give it a bloody good belt on the chamfered edge at 90degreee intervals - you'll know it's separated when it 'rings', then it's just a matter of wrestling it off past the drum. If you're doing shoes and cylinders for the extra £15 or whatever it is, it's worth replacing the drums - new ones without the ridge worn into the back of them are a lot easier to fit and adjust!

Use a large flat-bladed screwdriver with a slot cut in the middle to hook the big springs off their mounts and to re-apply them.

To remove the 'steadying pins' - on either side of the shoes *gently* clamp the plate with the slot with molegrips - be aware that it might be hideously corroded and collapse. If you don't know when your shoes were done last I'd recommend you get a fixing kit from GSF as a precaution.

To re-apply the slotted plate on the end of the pin, I think it's either a 12 or 13mm 3/8 drive socket that can be used to press this back on and twist to lock it in place.

You'll need a short flat blade screwdriver to work the barrel adjuster back up after you've re-fitted the drum. You'll be able to adjust a lot more slack off the handbrake with this adjuster than you would using the nuts on further up the system on the handbrake.

If the backplates are starting to go rusty it might be worthwhile taking them off and Hammeriting them, although if you need your van every day I'd hate to recommend that you get into a Clive-esque spiralling job scope-creep situation!

Remember to bleed the system up afterwards.

Good luck.

Post by **SyncroSam** » 12 Aug 2006, 08:35

What he said, but

if the drum won't shift

If you remove the bung and back the adjuster off first, the drum should remove a lot easier. Also, once the drum is back on, operate the handbrake several times as this ought to autoadjust any remaining slack off.

Post by **Diamond Hell** » 12 Aug 2006, 08:41

Apple polisher

Post by **sauce1001** » 12 Aug 2006, 19:35

Cheers for that, very helpful. Should be an interesting sunday!

Post by **camper** » 12 Aug 2006, 20:03

I replaced the rear shoes & drums in the week.I also did both sides wheel bearings .One of the wheel cylinders was leaking and the break linings badly worn.If you need to take the back plates off there is a dowel pin that needs punching out after all the bolts are off.

Post by **sauce1001** » 12 Aug 2006, 20:35

I'm not looking forward to removing/relocating the springs! Any tricks where that's concerned?

Post by **camper** » 12 Aug 2006, 23:21

Dont no about any tricks.But make sure you have a good jack and a axle stand for safety.There is a strong cross member at the rear near the jacking point.Thats where i place a axle stand to support the weight.I always use a hydrolic jack and not one provided with the van.After nearly loosing a couple of fingers when i was a lad i never use screw jacks when working on vehicles

Post by **HarryMann** » 13 Aug 2006, 12:41

I'm not looking forward to removing/relocating the springs! Any tricks where that's concerned?

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... _servicing

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... ion=submit

GSF do the brake spring service kits.

I wouldn't even think of taking the backplate off if you need the vehicle for Monday. Some are like paper these days, whilst later models or better looked after ones can be a doddle to get off, but then theres no need unless you're doing the wheel bearings at the same time or aiming to repair the backplate properly