DG Syncro Gearbox Switch Locations (Photo)

[Mickyfin]

Anyone know (Aidan)? Have I correctly labelled these two switches?

Thanks.

[axeman]

yep thats labeled correctly

neil

[Mickyfin]

Excellent, cheers. Now need to wait for the rain to stop. Where's our summer

[max and caddy]

That's a fancy gearbox!

[IdahoDoug]

Whatever you do, don't put that thing back in without replacing the lower starter stud with a 25mm bolt, and welding the nut on the clutch slave that's deep in the bracket. Those two will save you huge grief later.

DougM

[Mickyfin]

Not quite sure I understand what you are saying there my friend.

[ermie571]

Micky,

on the 2wd, the clutch slave is a bugger to get off in situ, as you need a 13mm spanner above and below...and on the rear (most inward bolt) access is a nightmare. Your slave support looks similar. What I think is suggested is you weld the nut on the bottom, so you only need one spanner to remove it. This is a recommendation from the 2wd club too! Guessing the lower starter bolt is sommat similar! ie easier to put in place then bolt in, rather than try and locate on a stud?

Em
xx

[Mickyfin]

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks. Will certainly look into this further

[IdahoDoug]

Sorry - as noted above. The rearmost nut on the slave support is on the bottom of the bracket up in essentially a cave where you can't get a wrench on it. Nightmare access. If you bring the tranny to a welder, cover that beautiful red with a blanket, he can tack the bolt in place and then it's easy to replace the slave cylinder later. Otherwise, you simply cannot believe how difficult it is. The lower Syncro starter stud forces you to jam the starter forward into the fuel tank to remove it because you have to move the starter forward so far to get over the lower stud before you can lower it. Pull the stud (3 minutes with an ordinary torch and pair of nuts on it jammed together) and purchase a bolt that is 25mm long. That's the perfect length. I brought home a 25, a 30 and a 35 to see which fit before I put my tranny back in. The 25 is perfect - fits in that shallow "well" on the starter to get the bolt started. Another difficult access item you'll be incensed at if some day you are having to remove the starter on a trip. Absolute nightmare and you can fix both now with the tranny out. Beautiful tranny, by the way.

DougM

[Mickyfin]

Cheers for clearing that up Doug.

The photo and the box is not mine btw but a member's on here, and The Samba. "tencentlife"
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/memberlist. ... le&u=13108" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I borrowed his photo from this thread..

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=399173" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks Chris for your private message, and yes, you are of course very right, I should of asked you first about using your photo my friend. Sorry, I'm guilty as charged.

[ermie571]

And as punishment, you will drop your box, scrub it till it shines, and paint it orange!! lol

Em
xx

ahh I thought tencentlife's was red......but its showing as orange on this screen...maybe green then. British racing green lol xx

[tencentlife]

Thanks Micky for understanding. No need to ask permission, though, anything I put on the web is free to quote from or copy as long as credit is given, the same respect due everyone. And none of us is perfect, it's so easy to forget, I'm sure I've broken the rule someplace myself, but we should all try to uphold standards of fair use nonetheless.

Lot's of interest in the paint: the color is Furred Red (the forum-bots won't let Henry's last name be posted, "feck" "pooh" "veryniceperson"'s attitude that is), which I would call more of a deep orange. Lots of old Furred tractors that color. Can't remember which brand I used but it's either Rustoleum or Duplicolor hi-temp engine enamel, they're equally good. Same stuff I use on all my engines. It chips easily when it's just air-dried, but the stuff hardens up once it heat-cycles. Could be oven-baked first but who has an oven that big? I did my front diff casing the same.

On the switches, the reverse and diff-lock switches are not interchangeable, but the diff-lock ones are interchangeable between front and rear diffs and I'm pretty sure the decoupler as well.

For both diff-lock and reverse switches, there are two generations which only differ in the wiring connections. Early had two 1/4" male tabs for push-ons, later they went to a molded two-pin connector. They're all simple switches so you can adapt your wiring one to the other as needed, no polarity. MY '86 Syncro had all the later style with molded connector, so I guess the change occurred before that.

[Mickyfin]

Thanks again Chris. I only need the reversing light switch, and I will be buying it from Brickwerks. I have printed out the 80-90 guide for freeing the diff lock pin, that this job is on he cards very soon.

[IdahoDoug]

Link to the 'guide' to free a locked pin, please? THANX

[Mickyfin]

http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Sy ... rs_removal" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;