Have just cut out the rear lower o/s front of wheel arch. Internal strengthening plate is in vgc and it needs a new closing plate BUT I'm not sure where to join it. It could be where the new panel meets the indentation or a noddles joint in the middle of the flat side as in the picture?? Also, I'm presuming it's best to weld in a closing piece (triangular) first or not....... Thanks.
yep, sort the closer, then skinover in which ever way you feel best for you, i usually remove right along to the arch and refirt the same,but as youve cut where you have then oft you go
mm
Dilemma- the schofields panel is a very poor fit, no indentation to match the old panel joint to arch etc. so, pics attached- whilst it might be easier to weld the whole section on, do you think it's possible and realistic to weld on the old arch bottom- in picture and then cut down the panel and add a 'lip' as per the original? Advice highly welcome?
it a hard call for you , i would do it as i have in various posts and cut out as you have and i remake /repair the bottom part of the wing where it joins the sill, awkward bit to make i know, trouble is, the repro stuff iusnt realllymeant to fit as you asre trying , they are all as you know an approximate representation of the genuine item , so iuf you were to cut it off then as you say you would have an abortive join where the arch meets the wing part,
with gas its as easy as can be but with mig a little harder, , can you not cut the rest of it off straight across, then remake the jp area, repair the wing bottom and then reweld this to the van,
put a bit of plate at the rear of the seam and it will m ake life easier,
sorry cant be of more help
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Thanks Mike. I've decided that I'd cut off the end of the repair panel and use it to form a lip on the panel at 90 degrees as per the original so that I can weld back the original bottom section of the wheelarch as it fits so well. Have made a small plate to close the inner wheelarch. Now for time to weld
This is proving tricky as I'm not a metal wizard quite yet! Am now thinking if I can buy a decent original cut from someone and seam weld it back in, should in theory be a better fit? The angles or 'arc' of where the arch fits the lower side sill are a bit tricky. Does this seem sensible/ easier? This is a pic of where I'm at now .
Ok, so I just got stuck in and despite working outside which is bad news on a windy day I did make some progress even if welds are crap and a bit unfocused- oh for a garage or barn!
Yeah welds looking a bit sorry for themselves. You sure your gas is flowing? If so, try turning the power up a notch on the welder and going slower, using the on/off technique to prevent blow-throughs...an auto darkening helmet helps your control a lot too because you can use both hands on the torch if you want then.
Boatbuilder, yes you're quite right. U'd been waiting for a good day /free time do start this and got frustrated and jumped in on a far from ideal day. I knew the wind was too much and should have stopped! I've achieved some quite reasonable results indoors or no wind on previous jobs. Billy, I'm sure your provocative reply was designed to be taken seriously and I take your point. I'm going to take it all back and do it thoroughly when there's time and in the meantime get a reactive mask!
Others may disagreed but I've done loads of structural welding with gasless wire when working outdoors.
Never had an issue with MOT's etc.
Not so good for bodywork though (spatter), gas is much neater even if you have to turn up the flow and waste a fair bit to get a clean weld. Suspect this may be your problem.
If your welder can handle gasless it's worth spending a tenner on a small reel and giving it a go.
Have now got a new lower rear arch panel - thanks Faggie! So whilst I am working out best way to fit that I've cut out the rot from the sliding door and started reading lots of build posts to understand how to fit an inner and outer skin on the slider. Can the inner sliding door repair panel be used in places as an 'over panel'? Cheers. Tim