N/S front "roaring noise"

[shaky]

Hi all,

Driving home last night I head a “Klonk” from the front nearside. A roaring noise now replaced it… The faster I drive the more the “roaring” increased.
No change in handling, Speedo okay. And still brakes fine. (The roaring doesn’t go away when I brake so didn’t think it would be brakes).

Got home late so just had time to jack wheel up and give it a tug… No 12-6 o’clock play and no 3-9 o’clock play which lessens the possibility of it being bearings.

There was a rubbing sound as I turned the wheel as if something might be catching.

I'll take the wheel off tonight and have a better poke around in daylight but I thought I’d throw a question out to see if anyone has any experiences or theories.

Many thanks,

Paul.

[Ian Hulley]

The only parts that rotate are the brake disc (binding pads) although you seem to have ruled that out and the wheel bearings inside the disc. Was the speedo working ok ? as the cable is routed through the center of that hub.

Ian

[shaky]

Thanks for the pointers… I didn’t get as far as I wanted to last night as SWMBO decided that I had other jobs of greater priority to do first!

Took the Wheel off and removed the pads…. The rough roaring noise was still present as I turned the wheel so it is not the brakes. Tonight I’ll disconnect the speedodrive just to eliminate that but it is pointing to bearings even though there is no play… This is odd as with all my cars in the past there has been a lot of play as the bearings wear down… I guess a bearing may be breaking up!

Paul.

[Ian Hulley]

There should be a smidgen of play, the thrust washer behind the peen nut should be able to be moved .. only just, but still moved ... this allows for expansion when the bearing/disc assembly heats up.

ian

[shaky]

Well I think I've found the source of the noise. I replaced the wheel bearing at the weekend - dodging the showers. The old inner bearings were fine with no wear but the smaller outer was badly pitted and rusted. I had the van laid up over Winter so I guess that water may have got in? The odd thing was why it would suddenly start to make a noise. I guess that "klunk" I heard was just a red herring.... You hear lots of odd noises when you drive a 30 odd year old bus.

[shaky]

Here are a few notes on wheel bearing changing if you've found this thread while searching for wheel bearing advice.

What I found:

It is a relatively easy job for the DIY'er.... The longest job was waiting in the queue at the post office to collect the wheel bearings package cos our new postie would not deliver it.. However ignore those who say the job will only take 30 mins... I'd leave a morning or an evening free if it is your first time at the job.

Make sure you have the right tools. A torque wrench is needed for the brake caliper and good axle stands as you are going to have to put a lot of pressure on the caliper bolts to get them off. You should have a good six sided 19mm ring spanner and socket not the cheap chinese stuff that is made of cheese. A good bar extension is needed to get the leaverage to get the brake caliper bolts undone.. Mr Haynes says a torque of 116ft/lbs are on the caliper bolts.. This is tight, hence the need for good kit.

I like the Haynes manual for the T25 but I think it is wrong to tell you to undo the 24mm steering bolt to get at the brake flexible pipe. I clamped the flexible pipe, undid the caliper and took it off completely. (Get a proper 11mm brake spanner or you will round the brake pipe). I know it means bleeding the brakes when you put it back together but you do get a chance to clean up the caliper and it is only this caliper that needs bleeding.... I think this is better idea than disturbing the steering ball joint.

Oh and personally I think the "peened" hub nut is a daft idea and could easily result in knackered steering nuckle threads

hope that helps.

(A good long bar on the socket to get leaverage)

[DeborahM]

Can you change the bearing without the disc coming off? My Haynes hasn't arrived yet, not got a torque wrench either.

[kevtherev]

Can you change the bearing without the disc coming off? My Haynes hasn't arrived yet, not got a torque wrench either.

you can change the outer bearing, without the disc off yes.
the inner bearing requires the disc to come off, but as it falls off any way once the outer bearing nut is undone. Then drift the race out and replace.
I did this... But found that using a new disc it is far easier to do, plus, the brakes don't fade any more.

[Boffer]

i just spent the morning (as a novice) replacing the bearings on my front wheels. All went well until it was time to pull off the disc. It seems that the race of the outer bearing has welded itself onto the spindle! I took a large chisel and hammer and smashed it but it didn't shift. I think my options look like 1. taking it to a garage (which i didn't want to do) and getting them to angle grind it off then file down the spindle or 2. replacing the whole steering knuckle and new disc and repair myself. Any other ideas?? Cheers.

[California Dreamin]

Post is 8 months old.......


Martin