no spark

[neilgibbs]

im tearing my hair out here and i'm already balled!

History:-
T25 water cooled DG1.9l D plate.
Past 2 year the van has been cutting out on and off but has always restarted before i could manage to tinker. But the other day it stopped and wouldn't restart.
Symptoms:-
No spark when cranked.
12v to coil from ignition switch (black wire)
2 x 12v feeds to ignition module (black wire and green wire)
3 wires from hall sensor have continuity to ignition module
GND from engine block to ignition module had continuity (brown wire)

Ignition module replaced (as per AA man)
Coil replaced
All plug leads replaced

1. is there a way i can manually simulate the hall sensor to create a spark at the king lead via the ignition module AND via the coil?
2. i appear to have a 22 ohm potential between the engine block and body work is this normal?
3. Help me PLEASE!

the only thing i can think of is the hall sensor but at 60odd quid a go i want to be sure its that firs, and are they easy to fit?

Neil.

[BOXY]

Might help?

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... ilit=+hall" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bigherb]

The hall sender is simple to check just remove the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it about 5mm away from a metal part of the engine or bodywork and away from the fuel system, remove the three pin plug from the distributor and probe a piece of wire into the centre pin of the plug, switch on the ignition and then scrape the other end of the wire along a metal part of the engine this should then produce sparks from the HT lead, if you get sparks then the rest of the ignition system is OK and the hall sensor is at fault. before you replace the sensor check there is more than 5 volt across the two outside pins of the three pin plug.

22ohm is to high but I think you have a miss reading there I would recheck that in a different place. It wouldn't affect the the ignition as it it earthed to the engine block anyway.

[kevtherev]

Apart from the hall sensor a poorly earthed coil will have an intermitant effect

[bigherb]

Coils don't need to be earthed.

[kevtherev]

Coils don't need to be earthed.

Really?
Then why is there one behind the coil attached to it?

[phil miller]

As above coils dont tend to be earthed, but some do have an earth lead, this is more to do with static discharge, well thats the way it was explained in college 20 yrs ago

[neilgibbs]

ok more problems.

It turned out to be the Coil (this time) it had gone open circuit and i could get the fault to follow the old coil.
Now.... i though this had sorted my problem but ohh nooo!

Broke down again this morning, this time i CAN get a spark from the king lead if i short the mideel pin from the hall sensor to earth and I DO have 8v across the ouside pins of the hall sensor so my diagnosis this time (and the AA man) is the hall sensor.

Any body any advice in fitting one. its the distributor with a single vaccuum advance?

Can i remove the distributor and would i need to retime the engine?

How difficult is it replacing one?

Any one know any numbers etc for dizzy, hall sensor, what other veichles have same setup?

sorry if you have already read this on brickyad but i'm all ears.

[BOXY]

If you remove the dizzie you will have to at least check the timimg. Even if you mark up the position of the dizzie before taking it off the "new" one might not have the exact same advance curve etc.

Removing the Hall sensor from the dizzie isn't too difficult if you can get hold of the tiny pin that locks it to the shaft. I wouldn't try doing it with the dizzie still fitted to the engine as you will almost certainly drop the pin into the dizzie.

The number of the dizzie is stamped into the body. http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpec ... lnmbrs.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Replacing a complete dizzie is a five minute job, plus however long it takes to set the timing afterwards.