starting

[dapple]

Now and again when starting 2l cu air cooled ,i turn the key some times once or twice nothing happens just a click,but most of the time starts straight away.any ideas

[monekynuts]

Ignition switch

[dapple]

is it a case of replacing

[Choppski]

is there power getting to the coil? check that first, then check the spark from the coil to a good earth on the engine tin ware. is the spark getting to a HT lead from the spark plug?

have you checked the main chassis earth cable? cleaned the connections?

i assume the battery is in good condition and is charging ok when it starts?

i went through this very issue recently...didn;t find the issue directly but narrowed it down to the connection from the ignition switch to the coil...then its starts every time (20+ times since) so i haven't delved any deeper.

When the engine is running, if you can, give the keys in the ignition a wiggle and see if it cuts off. If it does you've found the problem!

keep us updated.

[dapple]

thanks

[California Dreamin]

What confuses the average user is there will be power getting to where it is needed...but with starter circuits that is never good enough.
Petrol engined starters can draw anything up to 160amps when cranking, diesels up to 200amps. Connections may APPEAR to be sound, cables in a reasonable condition but they have to be almost perfect to carry this amount of current without too much voltage drop.
The most common issues are:

Small 6.3mm spade connector to solenoid (poor connection, wire internally corroded)
Earth connection on the nose of the gearbox (corroded braid and connections)
Braided wire on the starter motor, between the solenoid and starter body (corroded and turned to powder)
Ignition switch (internal failure) easily diagnosed by moving key whilst cranking.
Poor battery connections (cheap aftermarket terminals perhaps)

Martin

[dapple]

Thanks Martin ,i will check out this weekend

[dapple]

sorted loose bolt on solenoid