Club 80-90 Forums

I have recently fitted Baxter's Avo shocks to the front of my Tristar and was surprised how long it took. If all goes well and the bottom shock bolts aren't seized, then that's a four hour Job. You would be wise to enlist a second pair of hands to fit the new spring/shock combo. You will also need a pair of spring compressors - I did.

A good tip for removing suspensions bushes is to drill out the rubber with a 10mm drill bit and a cordless. Drill a series of about ten holes thru the rubber parts and the bushes will just fall out. No presses needed, easy-peasy go squeeze some lemons...

The upper wishbone bushes are pretty simple to do, as long as you have a bench vice to press the bushes back in. You do not need to tack weld the new bushes in place, contrary to what you may have heard. Two to three hours to do both sides.

Upper ball joints - easy job, half hour a side.

Bottom ball joint - a bastardos of a job requiring access to a press. I hated this one! Three hours a side.

Rear A-arm bushes - another "bar-steward"! Never had an easy one and generally use oxy-accetlylene, cutting discs and bad language to remove the arm from the van. If you can afford it, this is one job I suggest you pay to have done. You could get yourself in a world of poo on this one!

Steering rack bushes - easy, quarter hour job.

sweet reply.
second pair of hands are my hands, doing the job at a mates garage - he very clued up but never touched a a syncro b4.

that thing about tack welding them in place, heard and read that a few times, wass it all about?
looking forwars to the rear arm and bottom ball joints then ( save them for sat, me thinks).
world of poo here i come!

upper wishbone bushes are not welded on syncro we have cast arms, the 2wd have pressed metal ones and are spotted

if you haven't got a press or the tool for doing the rear trailing arm rubber bushes you will struggle and you had better have all new bolts as chances are you'll be cutting two of them at least unless the van is mint and has never seen salt

personally if I was doing the front I'd strip it all as putting it back together from scratch is easier than trying to do bits of the job

I completely stripped and rebuilt my entire front end (bar the steering rack which had been done previously) in one working 9 hour day on my own, with a ramp and someone making me cups of tea, however I had all new bolts and nuts, washers and fittings and had already prepared all the parts on a swap out basis ( I was also changing from early to late front suspension), ie new bushes, balljoints fitted to arms etc..., so it was a case of effectively fitting all new parts

fitting the lower control arms and radius rods first is easier than trying to refit them to the rest of the suspension as you can get them horizontal and get the nut on a few threads no problem, in any other scenario you need a big bloke and a big bar and usually a jack and/or a aratchet strap

the front spring compressors need to be compact as there's not much room

seikels self extend which makes fitting easier, normal dampers you need to make a tool

have fun

the van is relatively mint.
its a swedish import, dont know how long it was in the uk b4 i got it.
it looks fairly clean, so theres hope i reckon.
i dont have a press but there might b 1 about in neighbours garage.
thats encouraging about the siekles btw.
thanks.

The ideal tool for the cutting trough the rear trailing arm bolts is a 125 mm 1mm cutting disc (quality) in a 115mm grinder without the guard on... so thick leather gauntless and a full face mask. Cut cleanly and as square as possible upwards through the rubber and bolt, just inside the chassis brackets - its just about possible to get right through with a 115mm disc when new and unworn (full diameter) but 125mm is easier.

front springs and shocks, upper ball joints. 2 and a half hours.
suspension bolts slow to remove...
onto the rears...

lughole wrote:front springs and shocks, upper ball joints. 2 and a half hours.
suspension bolts slow to remove...
onto the rears...

Good work! Although, be prepared for the rear arms to be your 'Waterloo'!
Seriously though, please keep us informed of any 'tricks' you use to remove the rear arms. Harry's suggestion of 125mm disc sounds like it could be the way forward, but watch them pinkies as a 1mm cutting disc will cut flesh deep with a slip in an instant! I write from experience (all pinkies still intact, just...)

I think it should be said that if you use any power tool with the safety guard off you do so entirely at your own risk. Angle grinders are great tools but make sure you are fully awake when using one. I have a 3" scar across my wrist from not concentrating whilst using a 4" grinder. Then think about what happened to Paul whilst using a 9" grinder ......

both rear shocks and springs done. 1 1/2 hours.
van now sitting at least 4cm higher than b4. due to both back springs being broken. whoop whoop!

Bottom ball joints forget about the press they need shock tactics use a sledge a few taps will get them out oh and I mean taps! Rears just cut them out 1mm disc is perfect for the job have fun

http://s922.photobucket.com/albums/ad70 ... 704.jpg%26

apologies bugred that up.

Good job thats not a 'C' reg ......

so then, good day today.
new springs, shocks, ball joints, some investigation into various electrical probs, new brake pads on front, smoked lights fitted. took off strange mud flap mounting plates from inside arches -which were rubbing on wheel on almost full lock.
about 5 hours of proper work ( tea drinking not included ).
ride much, much higher. seikles and ome certainly lift the van high, twinned with the fact both original springs were broken.
van feels great, gonna take a big spin the morra, get used to the changes. really freaky driving it about in town- just feels like a different van, the steering feels better too.
very happy bunny. van starting to come together.
muchas gracias to all for advice.
(would post pics but i seem to be incapable of doing so)

syncropaddy wrote:Good job thats not a 'C' reg ......

everytime i go to the greenwaste tip, bloke behind counter cant help himself but to point this out, every F**** time!
someones gonna marker pen it soon...

I think it should be said that if you use any power tool with the safety guard off you do so entirely at your own risk. Angle grinders are great tools but make sure you are fully awake when using one.

Worth reading through this in our Wiki... hopefully some good hints and tips

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... der_Safety