Club 80-90 Forums

Fairly easy, nothing IMHO is dead easy, but look at this Wiki page...

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Di ... nstruments

Oil pressure is just a matter of finding sender small enough (they are cannular, some larger than others), so when fitted to oil filter housing it port doesn't get in the way of other stuff... then its all wires to front.

Oil temp is usually a small sender like the oil pressure switch..

http://www.bus-boys.com/bbvdo.htm#pressure

Some oil filter housing have a spare blanked off port, if not may need to disable an exisiting pressure switch.

Voltage needs to be full 12V. I connected mine to dash/side light wiring feed and when sides are on, pressure goes down and temp goes up.. worrying till I realised they must be getting a low voltage


Boost gauge just needs narrow bore tube to dash area fom a Y in LDA feed, any joins a fairly good fit as 10~20 psi can blow some less than tight push fittings off (the hissing is the clue, but isn't a show stopper)

Thanks again Harryman,
very useful information - just for clarity, the LDA is the little vacuum unit on top of the diesel pump?
posting.php?mode=reply&f=2&t=72564#

Yes, if you look back to page 4, the attached image of the engine bay in Choplee's post... the small hose that runs past the centre camcover bolt. Break into that one (preferably quite near one end, so that if things go pear-shaped it's still long enough to re-attch directly) LDA end suited me for get-at-a-ability.

The bore of the pipe doesn't matter really, thin 3mm nylon pipe will do, and is easier to run long through the van and cab, it's only taking a pressure signal, no flow, might take a bit longer to react if very thin, but it won't notice.

I used the common pipe on our Syncros for vacuum difflocks and inserted a short length into each end of the cut hose, a Syncro vac system Y piece (goes over plastic pipe, not inside) Then ran a 5 metre length up to the cab under flooring, it isn't something that will crush, could run it underneath if easier and bringout any of the holes into cab.. in my case, ideally it would be part of the difflock pipework and enter with those under the dash.

Boost gauges are fairly cheap, or can be, whatvere you like look of. I happen to like fairly decent sized well-lit gauges, and psi not bar... up to 20 or 25 is quite sufficient

Useful to start with and to see what sort of boost getting, needing for cruising and if all OK in that dept. But after a while you won't look at it much...

The real one for usefulness is an EGT (pyrometer)... that reflects exactly what the engine is having to do instantaneously heat-wise... even a gap in the trees affecting a sidewind will affect that, incredible things, with the bottom line on fuelling being max EGT, irrespective of anything else like revs or boot.

And of course oil temperature

So a 4 or 3pod unit would be perfect then Harryman....or maybe not the rev's counter ...unless i can get a dial for me main dash ...
Rev's
boost
oil temp
oil pressure
are they all very important ?

Oil temp and pressure is good for safety as is EGT
Boost is pretty pretty, can be temporary, a loose run just to check boost occasionally or when changing things, is worth doing
Revcounter also nice know..

But oil temp I'd say is No. 1

Thanks again Sir,
I can see my dash vanishing very quickly with gauges and that worries me, what would be your top three Harryman - what would you recommend as providing essential infomation?

My truck is my daily drive so I want to know whats going on back there

Water temp... a given!

Oil temp or pressure or both (tend to read reciprocally, one goes up the other goes down)
EGT (especially, if you are over-fuelling, over boosting)


Boost
RPM - sort of goes together with boost...

Pre and post intercooler Intake air temps

On a T25 - airspeed and local wind vector

Think i'll sort out a rev counter for in my dash then harry and look at oil pressure ,oil temp and boost for a dash pod ..
time to bash the internet....

She's running better with the fuel sorted now and going to give it a week or 2 and then get someone to look at a setup or tuneup to make sure i'm not now over fueling ..

HarryMann wrote:Water temp... a given!

Oil temp or pressure or both (tend to read reciprocally, one goes up the other goes down)
EGT (especially, if you are over-fuelling, over boosting)


Boost
RPM - sort of goes together with boost...

Pre and post intercooler Intake air temps

On a T25 - airspeed and local wind vector

to make sure i'm not now over fueling ..

Theres no such thing in diesel terms, you can put 200% more fuel in... at least

The criterion is: EGT (and tolerable black smoke for those behind, economy, but boot can set that).

Only you can decide, EGT max long term, about 750/800C ish, 900/950 for a few seconds.. opinion varies, depends on strength of engine (AAZ seems to take 850/950 for a few seconds and 800 all day). Have seen a 950~1000 occasionally

Most get nowhere near that, you shouldn't have that problem as you have a big T3 turbo which will keep EGT down

Cheers for that Harryman...
Running well now harry...Just idling abit fast ,so need to just adjust that ....

HarryMann wrote:

to make sure i'm not now over fueling ..

Theres no such thing in diesel terms, you can put 200% more fuel in... at least

The criterion is: EGT (and tolerable black smoke for those behind, economy, but boot can set that).

Only you can decide, EGT max long term, about 750/800C ish, 900/950 for a few seconds.. opinion varies, depends on strength of engine (AAZ seems to take 850/950 for a few seconds and 800 all day). Have seen a 950~1000 occasionally

Most get nowhere near that, you shouldn't have that problem as you have a big T3 turbo which will keep EGT down

Ah! If that has speeded up since you increased fuelling, then:

1) Try backing the residual fuel screw right off, usually is the long screw that the throttle lever parks against
2) If that's right back already or makes no difference, then it's the main fuelling screw, bring back 1/4 turn and see what happens, thiiiiisss can be a problem

Is that a squashed compressor intake hose I spy... ?



OR

does it just look badly squashed?

That's not the JX banjo joggle around the engine mounting compressor inlet hose connector.. praps the original.. GTD?

If it is as bad as it looks and not a camera angle effect, then I'd say that's choking it a fair bit

=====

Since upping the fuelling, then, does the turbo come in earlier?

1 & 2 i'll take a look at later harryman.....It's not idling really high ,but you can tell it is abit ..

The hose comes out the turbo and then turns into a flat round pipe then when past the mount back to a round pipe ...not sure if i sent all the turbo photo's ??

You can tell the engine isn't having to work as hard and you can feel the turbo abit more ( or it maybe because i can hear it more ...haha )

HarryMann wrote:Ah! If that has speeded up since you increased fuelling, then:

1) Try backing the residual fuel screw right off, usually is the long screw that the throttle lever parks against
2) If that's right back already or makes no difference, then it's the main fuelling screw, bring back 1/4 turn and see what happens, thiiiiisss can be a problem

Is that a squashed compressor intake hose I spy... ?

That's not the JX banjo joggle around the engine mounting compressor inlet hose connector.. praps the original.. GTD?

If it is as bad as it looks and not a camera angle effect, then I'd say that's choking it a fair bit

=====

Since upping the fuelling, then, does the turbo come in earlier?

Here's one Dave Syncro-Nutz made to get around this problem..


Here's a look at the JX double-doughnut banjo style manifold that steps the intake hose around the n/s engine-mount alongisde one made for the T3 (larger intake diameter) which requires a cut-away or otherwise modified engine mount, as the T3 sits further aft.

OK, so you say that is just how it looks, and the pipe is flattened by design and not squashed... in that case would be interesting to know what it came off.
Looks like the whole installation has been done OK and that (contentious) air-filter may be off the donor too, or adequate at least.

PS. Check if your camera has a 'close-up' setting in the menu or a button for these occasions

Going back to the 1.6TD tune.
I have now ordered, begged or stolen the required tools for the tasks.
Two questions:
When setting the valve clearance what's the best method to turn the crank, I know the easiest (most accessible) is the camshaft bolt but that can be a bit risky.
Access to the lower end is a bit tight.
So what do most do?

Following on, is it best (easier) to remove the injectors or leave them in and battle against the compression?

Cheers
Titus