Migmate T135 Turbo mig welder thoughts

[Plasticman]

Very good statement, when I was in my teens I was not that well paid but I was learning a trade/skill from a real old master , whilst I had mates that went into jobs like driving and wharehouse work , not much skill needed but more instant cash.
Im glad I took the course I did and whilst I have gone off and done other things I have always got that to fall back on. and now I do it because I can and I enjoy it, ok I make a little money but that is no longer the driving force,
Still happy to show folks the way to do some of the old stuff if only to make their life easier and continue the crafts.
mike

[HarryMann]

Between the lines you two, I think you are both also saying...

'.. there is a very big difference between competent or even good amateur and a professional (welder)'

One is attitude as you rightly say, another is 'would you buy that part if it lay ona counter looking at you with a price tag' ?

Very good

My answer on my work?

Largely no, only very recently after 3 years 'trying', occasionally - perhaps

[ianboydsnr]

You will only be able to get around 150amps through a 13amp plug, any more and you need a higher amp supply,

dont use coiled up extensions as the cable will heat up and melt the extension,

the lower that the machine goes to the better, you need no more than 30 amp for car bodywork and preferably 20 amp, this makes some proffesional welders and cheap welders unsuitable,

the more power adjustments on the machine, the easier it is to find the setting that works best, make sure your machine is working at its best, clean the shroud, replace tip and clean/replace the liner regulary, best to replace the liner with a metal one.

welding with Co2 is fine, the weld will be higher and it will be more difficult on thin metals, but will work without being a moron, but argon mix is noticibly better, if you need to weld outside use the flux cored, its crap but will do the job.

only weld to clean metal, and clean both sides, you cant weld paint and underseal, but you can set fire to it

practice off the work, to get the correct settings, only then weld on the work, cut the metal for patching as close as you can, take time getting it right, best tools for this are tin snips and a file, tack the patch first every half inch to an inch, if you get a hole, then flatten some copper pipe and hold it behined the hole, the weld will not stick to the copper, so its easy to fill the hole with weld.

You dont need to be a proffesional to weld, if your practical at other things, you will pick it up easy and to a good standard.

[HarryMann]

if you need to weld outside use the flux cored, its crap but will do the job.

Agree with all that good advice, except have never resorted to flux cored.. just waited for a lull in the wind or erected a few sheets of hardboard... or turned up the gas

Yes a good fit, but doesn't need to be perfect, a vice, a hacksaw and a file are vital tools IMHO

You won't cut this with tinsnips, or even heavy gilbows ! Any half-hard steel over 0.8mm is pushing it with hand-shears IMHO

Once tacked like this , then can do longer runs without fear of distortion and pulling away. A finger-nail gap is about right for this heavy 2mm stuff, less for thinner stuff.





https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ar ... oss-member

[ianboydsnr]

if you need to weld outside use the flux cored, its crap but will do the job.

You won't cut this with tinsnips, or even heavy gilbows ! Any half-hard steel over 0.8mm is pushing it with hand-shears IMHO





https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ar ... oss-member

Wuss

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Glad to see this thread is going well, and in the right direction

Tip for conserving your copper coated mild steel wire: Buy some giant clicklock type freezer bags. When you open your fresh spool from its cardboard box, there should be a packet of silica gel (always marked do not eat...What would happen I've always wondered ). Put that in the bag with the spool when finished, and remove all the air possible, should keep for years. It is worth buying a good wire, Thyssen or Lincoln or ESAB. Not just for show, there are real benefits to be had.

Tip to avoid carp (is that a technical term Mickey) , getting into the torch liner: Push the wire through a disposable ear plug before it goes into the roller(s). Keeps it clean.

Cordialement,

[Plasticman]

Noooooooooo, its just that I dont like swearing sort of thing, well I do really but not on forums go the whole hog and inform that cheawp wire does work ish but the tolerance of the wire is not too high so it will vary in diameter which in turn alters how the weld feels and looks etc, wire feeds like a uniform diameter, also the quality of the wire is important as well as its composition and the copper coating, also some of the budget ones are not exactly spooled uniformly and this can cause snatches with the wire feed.
Take everything out of the equation that can prevent a decent weld.
spend good money on a decent mig so dont throw it away on cheapish wire
mike

[sarran1955]

absolutely


We have had on trial a batch (1 tonne) of chinese wire. This wire is conforme to all norms, but I find it very harsh with a lot of ashing. I have to clean the shroud much more often, and there is more spatter. I wonder for the small economy versus the time on cleaning up after, whether its just not better to buy a better wire. As far as our debutant friends are concerned, make things easy for yourself, go to a good merchant, and get yourself a pot of Binzel dusofix and some antispatter at the same time .....I'll tell you why later

Bonne nuit,

Cordialement,