Clutch Replacement

[Realize]

Cheers guys it was the wiki that confused me it shows both coming out under the clutch replacement section.

Better get some swarfega in.

[CovKid]

Get a box of latex/surgical gloves and change them frequently. Wear goggle or safety glasses to protect your eyes from crap underneath. Check for signs of leakage on the driveshaft plates (where shafts meet gearbox). If they weep, do replace seals - makes sense while gearbox out. Gave mine a pressure wash and repaint plus gearbox oil change.

[Realize]

Cheers you guys that's much clearer in my mind the wiki was confusing me.

[Realize]

What gearbox oil do you recommend there was some stuff mentioned in wiki that makes shifting smoother.

[CovKid]

Just stick with GL4 - gearbox oil isn't cheap. Grease and check linkages.

[Realize]

Nice one CovKid you and the guys have been very helpful, it's been a whils since I have done any work on an old vw.
I will have to bust the old tool box loose, I better get a new torque wrench I lent my old one to someone and never saw it again.

[CovKid]

On beetles ofcourse, the gearbox stays where it is and you drop the engine but these are a little different. You can remove engine and gearbox together but no point just for a clutch. The Haynes is ok for taking you through this job. Just bear in mind points about gearbox seals as its a breeze to do these with box out and you don't want to be doing it in 6 months time. Seals under a tenner from Brickwerks. As long as battery is disconnected, you can leave cables on starter connected - just tie it up out the way. Definately worth doing gearbox input shaft seal but get an oil seal remover (£6 from Machine Mart) as it'll be out in under 3 mins with one of those.

Thats what we're all here for buddy

[Ian Hulley]

Wrap each CV joint in doubled carrier bags as you drop the shafts down, squeeze them tight and tie them up ... that way the balls can't drop AND you don't end up with moly-ear should you carelessly turn round

Ian.

[Titus A Duxass]

I feel that a clutch change is due on my bus soon.
Can someone please put together a list of parts with part numbers (based on this thread) that should normally be changed.
I can then do a one-stop shop to get all the bits.

We could do with two lists really, one for fools gold engines and one for Rudolphs finest (n/a & TD).

[CovKid]

To be honest its all in the WIKI. The areas we have highlighted are just other things you might want to do when box is out. As for clutch, most recommend a 3-part LUX one and the gearbox output and input shaft seals are available from Brickwerks plus the seal caps if needed. Process is documented here:

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... eak_repair" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I also added a piece yesterday on driveshaft bolt upgrades at the bottom of this page (another thing you might want to do):

https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Ge ... nts_repair" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Titus A Duxass]

From this thread I have identified the following as possibly required:

Thrust Bearing
Spigot Shaft Bearing
Gear box Oil Seal
Drive Shaft Side Plates
Gearbox Rubber Mount
CV bolts (12 point)
Crankshaft Oil Seal

The only part number that I have found in the Wiki is V0291 301 189 which for the Gear Box Oil Seal (I think).
As I don't shop at Brickwerks I tend to buy my parts from VW or Classic VW, to do this I need part numbers.

Can anyone add part numbers to the above for both petrol and diesel (I need the diesel numbers)?
Failing that can someone point me to a site where I can get the numbers?

[CovKid]

To be fair though, I'm not sure I'd be doing all of those jobs anyway. I might if I had problems with them, but you can go on indefinately replacing things. Really, the clutch should be the main part and anything else considered as you go along.

[Titus A Duxass]

To be fair though, I'm not sure I'd be doing all of those jobs anyway. I might if I had problems with them, but you can go on indefinately replacing things. Really, the clutch should be the main part and anything else considered as you go along.

I approach tasks like this in a different way.
I have to rent workshop space by the hour and so cannot afford to find out that I need another part from VW which will arrive the following day.

I also think that while the gearbox is out and if the parts are relatively low cost simply replace them.
Obviously if the seals are still tight I won't touch them but as they only cost a couple of yoyos I have them at hand.

[kevtherev]

re part Nos.
The free service from Vagcat is not working so you'll be waiting for an etka bloke

[CovKid]

I approach tasks like this in a different way.
I have to rent workshop space by the hour and so cannot afford to find out that I need another part from VW which will arrive the following day.

But ofcourse, and thats what I did with mine, but I sure didn't order a new front gearbox mount - you seen the price of them?

As Jerome K Jermome once said, there are two types of cyclists in this world, those that fix them and those that ride them. What he meant was that you can spend far too much time under them than actually using them and after 25 years at this, I've learnt it many times. Always consider things that might or could need replacing but by the same token, don't overdo it.