george2490 wrote:More?
More.... are you sure....


OK, so here we go..
Now we can look at the crankcase studs..
These are helicoiled, and so have a tendency to wind out..clamp in place and remove the nut.. DO NOT..unscrew the stud.
I have a 'nut welded on stick' tool to check for stud tightness (make what you can of that Bobster

Then clean every thread.. big studs..
and little studs..
and while we are at it..go over the cylinder heads..
If you are using new T1 / 2 chinese heads you will need to recover this little deflector :
I will come back to the heads later..for now we will start to overhaul the exhaust and heating system..
The heating system on a CT is probably the best set up of all the aircooleds.. with a dedicated turbine and 2 sets of exchangers..

But to work at it's best, the whole thing must be air tight..

so for example I'll use NOS for this one:
The front exchangers are the most exposed, but these have held up well,despite all those broken studs..

HERESY WARNING..
The druids say you can only use CT heat exchangers (at 245€ a pop), when with a discerning eyeball
you will see that a CT only heat exchanger is a T1/2 exchanger (at 121€) with a pipe welded on ..

Which said pipe has several holes where the clamp goes..
2 ways of doing this.. either spend 1/2 the day blowing holes in the rust with welding torch.. creating something grotesque..

and then having to grind it all off to get the exhaust to fit...



or:
Secure heat exchanger:
Then cut 35 mm of same diameter tube:
Which you then slice away 2x the wall thickness:
which is then soft malleted into place..with the gap in the insert lined up with the biggest rust hole..
Then welded and sanded to finish... the old exhaust clamp ring serves as a control on the pipe diameter to check for an easy fit..
I don't do struggle..
That's it for tonight..you may now resume a normal activity..


Cordialement,
