Rebuild

[xpertbert]

Good news I have the plastic link, removed and checked. It is all in one piece as your photo.

[itchyfeet]

Good news, It's a while since I toom one appart, will have a look at my spare to remind myself.
You will ned to remove and split carb to fit it so I reccomend you buy a gasket only for about £5 and fit the link and choke flap, need threadlock or better still re peen the screws.

Better to do one step at a time, refit and test, then do the rebuild kit

If you go straight for a rebuild kit you will gave changed so much you may not know what to look for if it doesnt work.

when you take the carb off keep it upright then give it a damn good clean on the outside with paraffin and a paintbrush, want to do it on newspaper and keep renewing it, you want to be very very clean, dont wanr any dirt inside.

when clean then split it.

when you remove or refit the carb use a rag places over the barrell so there is no risk of dropping a nut or washer down into the engine, be very very careful

[xpertbert]

Were would I get a gasket only from. The question I have is that one of the bolt holes on the top part of the fitted carb is totally shot. The bolt I mean is one of three that holds down the plastic housing above it. So should I fit the spare because of not getting a perfect tighten down seal or still use the fitted one.

[itchyfeet]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pierburg-Carb ... 23400fdd4f" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They are studs in the carb with nuts holding the pancake plastic trunking on, they are easily replaceable but I can't see what you mean from your pics, do you mean the thread in the carb is shot?

if studs are coming out with nits then you need to get the nuts loose and replace the studs with threadlock, you will strip the soft aluminium if you don't. If one carb thread is stripped then you will need to helicoil it.

there should be a seal from this to the carb, Brickwerks sell them I think.

[xpertbert]

yes the thread has totally been open up. no longer round nor would you be able to re thread it. do you think it would be better to fit the spare. in my picture you can see two of the studs in but the third is not there. gasket ordered to. cheers

[itchyfeet]

Yeh i see it now
you can get an M5 helicoil kit which is worth a go.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Piece-Heli ... 3f25a1e853" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
deffo m5 from this post
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... g#p8001070" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You could try the top off the other carb but personally Id try and repair the one you know works
Have you compared the model numbers on the two different carbs, starts 025....

[itchyfeet]

correct pipe for oil breather to carb pancake trunking
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/b ... bx-dg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can make a low cost one from ribbed plastic tube from B&Q according to Ghost123 on here, that tube you have will probably kink.

A bit of oil in the ribs of the rubber boot from pancake trunking to air filter housing is common, wipe it out and keep an eye on it.

As said there could be excessive oil vapour that caused somebody to do this but equally it could be that somebody had overfilled it.

WBX engines don't like to be full they burn off to 3/4 quickly so don't bother filling above 3/4

[itchyfeet]

There is also one more problem I have been having. On the motorway when accelerating of 65 mph the will judder slightly it's like it get starved from fuel. Drop back down and it's fine. It is only a small judder. I have purchased myself a fuel pump ready to fit aswell. I do want to try and get to the bottom of all this. So any help would be very much appreciated

could be fuel starvation could be a problem with the second choke which is vacuum operated, you can check the second choke vac unit when the carb is off is easiest. open the throttle about half way, pull the pipe off the carb end of the disc unit on rear of carb, then suck on pipe, you should see the second throttle open

[xpertbert]

I have ordered the helicoil kit. Once they arrive I will start going through everything bit by bit and keep you updated.

[itchyfeet]

I have a nagging feeling there is something different to your spare choke mech so look close at my pics. or get a better pic up of yours on the carb side.

This is yours...



this is mine, It wont come off the plastic link without removing the choke flap spindle, so I can't take it right off to photograph but I unscrewed it to get a better pic....
When you come to assemble it the choke assembly and plastic link needs assembling onto the carb before you slide the choke spindle in, then fit the flap and shaft cover.



these are old pics when it was in bits...




removing choke flap spindle ( but you know that now)

[xpertbert]

Thanks for these pictures and advice the are very much appreciated. I would not have tried this without your help.

[xpertbert]

All bits now purchased and ready to start. Problem I now have the other half has got me decorating gggrrrrrrr..

[xpertbert]

I have cleaned and fitted my carb back in with new breather tube. sorry I can't upload a photo as my photobucket app is not working. I have two cables that are not connected to anything. One is off the choke and the other comes off the carb they are both male type plugs. I started her up and went for a quick drive. Wow more responsive and didn't seam to feel like it starved of fuel. The cone filter was blocked in places. The tick over is very up and down. Ranging from 2000rpm down to 1200rpm is that anything to do with the cables.

[itchyfeet]

Looking at this pic
Red cable to manufold heater at the bottom should be thermostatic switched circuit ( red wire from loom comes from relay in black box) along with the black wire just above it which is the part load duct heater.

the cylinder above with a male spade is the bypass air cut off valve which should be ignition 12v ( black wire in loom)

The auto choke heater, the right hand black wire is connected to ignition 12v (black in loom) for later vans but Haynes shows it to the thermostatic switch circuit so I think early vans may have it connected there.

[xpertbert]

Looking at this pic
Red cable to manufold heater at the bottom should be thermostatic switched circuit ( red wire from loom comes from relay in black box) along with the black wire just above it which is the part load duct heater.

the cylinder above with a male spade is the bypass air cut off valve which should be ignition 12v ( black wire in loom)

The auto choke heater, the right hand black wire is connected to ignition 12v (black in loom) for later vans but Haynes shows it to the thermostatic switch circuit so I think early vans may have it connected there.

I have all the same wires. But I have a bunch of others that I don't know which cable I connect them onto. I will upload the pics when I can. Having major problems with my I since i updated. So I'm not a happy chappy at the moment