Starting Problems...

Post by **kyleewyleecoyote** » 21 Sep 2006, 12:22

I have a 1990 1.9 DG. In the morning it will start and run for about 30 seconds before cutting out and then refuse to start.
However, if left till the warmer part of the day, it will start if I directly prime the carb a little beforehand, resulting in a rough erratic drive at low revs, but fine on the high end.
The Wiki suggests that it may be the carb heater and the length of its operation, how do you check the operation of it if it wont start? Could it be something else??
Any advice would be appreciated!

Post by **stuckin88** » 21 Sep 2006, 17:51

Check carb heater by switching on ignition-when engine is cold-then put your fingers under manifold under carb--you should feel it get warm---does van run ok once the engine has fully warmed up?--if so I guess your problem is the automatic choke--remove air cleaner trunking--floor throttle & release--choke flap should now be closed--get assistant to attempt to start engine--watch choke flap-it should open slightly-& engine should start---once engine is fully warmed up--flap should be fully open--with engine running-attempt to close flap with your finger--it should almost close then meet strong resistance--this shows pull down unit is working----problems with Pierburg carbs are usually caused by dirt inside them--only way is to strip & clean carb--but first buy an aerosol tin of Wynns carb cleaner from Halfords--spray loads into air intake & leave overnight--then squirt more in while running--this may solve problem short term--but you really need to strip & clean carb--gasket set from GSF

Post by **vanjam** » 22 Sep 2006, 08:24

I agree with stuckin88, there was a similar thread recently, I think. Cleaning has made a real difference with mine. Only other thing I would suggest is that you check the idle stabiliser unit is getting current, the small cylinder sticking out of the carb towards the rear of the vehicle. When you do have it running, try disconnecting it, if there's no change it might be an indication that it's not working or not connected.

I have some annotated photos of this carb if you want
Jim

Post by **kyleewyleecoyote** » 22 Sep 2006, 10:38

Thanks for the advice! The van runs great at anything above 2500 rpm (guess) but will cut out at idle, on a recent trip back from Scotland I lost anything but full throtle (may have been crud in the idle jet tho)
I have stripped it down and removed the crud using carb cleaner ( N.B. wear gloves, gave my hands a chemical strip), as well as removing the fuel pump and checking its operation. The secondary throttle and accelerator diaprhrams seem in good order, so I guess it will be a case of following the proceedure for checking choke pull down unit and throttle body heater. Thanks for the offer of the diagrams Jim, I found this to be a good source: http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/2E3type If there is any additional info from this, it will be appreciated.
Thank you once again; I'll keep you posted to how it goes.

Post by **stuckin88** » 22 Sep 2006, 12:58

Good point--idle shutoff valve--the cylindrical thing screwed into side of carb--has wire connected to it--listen while your assistant turns ignition on & off--it should click--if not--go from there--