Juddering in 1st and reverse

[T'Onion]

sounds like its the clutch plate thats warped or the gearbox mount

[HarryMann]

The clue might be above...

or below...

Ive just had new engine etc in so I dont suspect the mounts.

There's your answer then... who put it in, did they do all the normal clutch checks, cleaning and deburring

Flywheel face, splines and operating forks, new plate?

Any juddering is usually worse in reverse... torque multiplication is higher

Time to stop guessing... get a big jemmy out and start levering the mounts about to see if they are perished/delaminated or show any signs of ageing/looseness, especially the front one, but go around them all.

[trundletruc]

I would replace the mounting at the front of the gearbox. It made the juddering better on my 1.9DJ van. I think they will all judder a bit if there is slight unevenness in the clutch and you only use low revs.

I have to remember to have plenty of revs on when I let go the clutch, then it doesnt judder.

I keep thinking that a peice of hard rubber wedged into the top of the gearbox mounting would stop the lifting of the gearbox caused by the torque reaction from the wheels. It would make the gearbox noisier inthe van though. Must try it sometime.

[HarryMann]

That sounds about the score Mr Trundle.

Though a bit of rubber is what's there already namely a gearbox mount. Think what it would need is a well positioned damper to dissipate the energy, some of which is rotational. I've heard of shockers angled across the engine around the bellhousing region, attached to the firewall, that are probably aimed at subduing some of this latent energy...

but to be honest, if engine mountings are all in good nick, the clutch should be sorted out if possible.

A smooth engagement is helped by deburring the edges of the clutch release forks - the hardest thing to sort out is a wavy/overheated flywheel - because they can't be turned on a lathe and they're a recessed (stepped) design, making grinding difficult (but can be done in the right shop)