T25 camper - oil pressure buzzer (of doom)
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I had an Audi that did the same thing - the fault was in the dash - it was sensing the revs wrong so the buzzer was going off before the revs were high enough to get the pressure up. No way of fixing except to change the dash so I bypassed the high oil pressure switch and fitted a gauge.
Try (temporarily) disconnecting the high pressure switch, if the dash is working the buzzer should then always go off but at fairly high revs. If it is going off continuously or at very low revs then the dash is probably faulty.
If this works try earthing the sensor wire it should now not buzz whatever - if the buzzer still comes on at certain revs a wiring fault is likely.
NB. This assumes the high pressure sensor switch is closed when the oil pressure is good - if it is the other way round (can't remember for sure) then these tests need to be reversed.
Low 20s MPG is normal I'm afraid, especially if yours is a high top.
Try (temporarily) disconnecting the high pressure switch, if the dash is working the buzzer should then always go off but at fairly high revs. If it is going off continuously or at very low revs then the dash is probably faulty.
If this works try earthing the sensor wire it should now not buzz whatever - if the buzzer still comes on at certain revs a wiring fault is likely.
NB. This assumes the high pressure sensor switch is closed when the oil pressure is good - if it is the other way round (can't remember for sure) then these tests need to be reversed.
Low 20s MPG is normal I'm afraid, especially if yours is a high top.
Why does the not quite finished job before last always conspire with the not quite started job after next to make what you should be doing now harder?
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Re: T25 camper - oil pressure buzzer (of doom)
andyRB wrote:Hi all
or perhaps its the wiring behind the dash - i also took the van to an autoelectrician but he said the wiring was basically impossible to get at or check and a new dash pod may be the best answer (surely not??)
thanks
andy
Rubbish, he didnt want to do the job!
If it is the foil pcb then thats a diffecult job to repair, but possible. I could just be the connection plug to the dash pod, try giving it a gentle clean.
If you are sure it isnt the oil pressure, it will be either the senders or the wiring from the engine bay.
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911

________________
1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
tel / txt O7947-137911
________________
1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper
Good idea to check the actual oilo press too, at idel and at 2000 rpm, cold and hot... I sense that this 'its the DOPS system malfunctioning' cry, is sometimes the easy answer - poss about 50/50 DOPS/Oil Pressure
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I would get the hot oil pressure checked ASAP
For your sake I hope it is an electrical fault, but sadly it is often a sign that the crank bearings and / or the oil pump is on it's way out
For your sake I hope it is an electrical fault, but sadly it is often a sign that the crank bearings and / or the oil pump is on it's way out

Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here
The pressure is simply the head of oil... rhou * g * h where rhou is density, g is gravitational accern. and h is oil level height above the sump plug. In whatever unit system takes your whim* 
Even allowing for slosh factor this equals = Not much
However, oil has an uncanny habit of finding the path of least resistance, so a few prayers and you should/might/could be OK!
* e.g. Using Imperial units: rhou in slugs/cu.ft., height in feet and g in ft/sec/sec gives pressure in lbf/sq.ft (so divide by 144 for psi)

Even allowing for slosh factor this equals = Not much

However, oil has an uncanny habit of finding the path of least resistance, so a few prayers and you should/might/could be OK!
* e.g. Using Imperial units: rhou in slugs/cu.ft., height in feet and g in ft/sec/sec gives pressure in lbf/sq.ft (so divide by 144 for psi)
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Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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