adjustment of lifters

Post by **kevtherev** » 28 Aug 2006, 15:05

I have read a lot of written info on the adjustment of these buggers.

although they are supposed to be self adjusting, periodical readjusting is necessary, some say warm, some say hot and pumped up!

I have followed one method....i.e. hot and pumped, adjusted from "zero (touching valve stem) turn in 2 turns (-2)...and there still is a couple of noisey ones, I can't tell which ones.

I know what a deflated follower sounds like and they're not that noisy.

How do you find the noisey ones?

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 28 Aug 2006, 16:32

Agree Kev. They are a total $*$& to adjust. Still having trouble with ChickenKoops. After two attempts the left hand side of his engine seems to have the adjusters wound out more than looks right - even though they're 'allegedly' correct by the book. Also a pain to do (if not impossible) without a helper as you need to have both valves shut and finding the rocking point is a fine art.

Incidentally we settled for half a turn as mentioned elsewhere in the forum.

Post by **Simon Baxter** » 28 Aug 2006, 16:36

Remove dizzy cap, find the notch on the top edge.
point the rotor arm to said notch, this is number one.
Set number one rocker.
turn the engine BACKWARDS 180 degrees, set number 2.
180 degrees back, set 3
180 degrees back, set 4
If they are still noisey then take it for a good long run, 15-20 minutes, see if they are still noisey.
Are you sure the noise is the tappets?
Going 2 turns is likely to hold the valves open, remember that the 2 turns is for a new, empty lifter not one thats just been running.

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 28 Aug 2006, 17:07

Yep thats the principle but it certainly didn't work like that in the case of ChickenKoops since one valve was halfway down when we relied on the notch on the dizzy - hence finding the valve pivot point by eye.

The dizzy is only a rough guide at best. The pulley wheel is more accurate, if its marked for TDC that is. Even with beetles one had to rely on the pulley wheel marks. The dizzy simply isn't accurate enough to set up valves.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 28 Aug 2006, 18:37

I always use 1/2 to 1 turn max from just touching.. I rekon any more is likely to hold a valve open
as Si says 15 mins run with 15w40 or 15w50 or 20w50 (for high mile engines) is needed..

If you have some noise still, back off the adjuster so its just touching or even a tiny clearance, run it fo a bit and do the 1/2 turn..

Post by **kevtherev** » 28 Aug 2006, 18:41

Ok so set the hot lifters half a turn in from zero, on comression stroke, bout 5 deg BTDC?

so valves opening too early..closing to late, therefore reducing power?

Post by **Simon Baxter** » 28 Aug 2006, 18:49

CovKid wrote:Yep thats the principle but it certainly didn't work like that in the case of ChickenKoops since one valve was halfway down when we relied on the notch on the dizzy - hence finding the valve pivot point by eye.

The dizzy is only a rough guide at best. The pulley wheel is more accurate, if its marked for TDC that is. Even with beetles one had to rely on the pulley wheel marks. The dizzy simply isn't accurate enough to set up valves.

Sorry, I meant to use the notch to find number 1 then use the pulley for timing mark for TDC, thats me not writing everything down. Also mark a paint spot at 180 degrees from TDC so you know where to stop on the others.

Post by **kevtherev** » 28 Aug 2006, 19:17

Thanks to all for the advice, a further attempt will be made to have them quieter