Conversion to 009 distributer

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 24 Aug 2006, 10:52

As has been mentioned on here many times, the 'all advance' 009 dizzy does not suit these vans. In fact its questionable if it suits anything in the Aircooled range with the lack of retard/advance functions.

That said, on the 009 theres a notch that denotes number 1 cylinder then working anti-clockwise its 2,3, and 4 respectively. Generally on the standard dizzy number one sits at the back but on the 009 its at the front. Hopefully someone can post a diagram - might be something in the WIKI. Crucial thing with the 009 is ensuring that at full revs the advance isn't beyond safety limits. On a bug it was 29 degrees but not sure with this engine.

Try looking at a few Beetle forums - the layout is the same even if its a different engine and lots of bugs around with 009's.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 24 Aug 2006, 11:22

I wouldnt bother... the 009 is a pile of junk unless you have a really old one.. most new ones have barely 17 deg of advance...
so you would need to time up for a max advance of 32 BTDC over 3000rpm.

Instead of changing the dizzy, make sure all connections are ok.. if its producing a spark then its working, the hall sender generally will either work or not.. same for the amplifier etc,
the other thing worth doing is disconnect the idle stabiliser and connect the 2 plugs together.. the idle stabiliser is prone to problems with age.. and can be thrown.. its the black box next to the amplifer..

Then if the std carbs are still on it, these wear on the spindle bearing, only cures are rebuilt carbs or a webber 32/36 kit, or even ICTs...
the worn carbs will cause all sorts of starting and running problems..

Generally make sure the whole system is put together correctly, no end of bits get left off and pipes perished etc..

Website · Post by **CovKid** » 24 Aug 2006, 11:32

Nicely said. 009 ok for a 'get you home' or in sheer desperation but really doesn't suit these engines.

Post by **ermie571** » 24 Aug 2006, 11:49

totally agree - my 1980 a/c came with webers 40s and 009 distributor....

The engine was knackered too - a compression test showed air everywhere, and since the extensive history that came with it showed a recent head replacement, decided to bite bullet and have recon.

Had one of the Volk....... ones (didn't know about the contraversy with this company then), but 14 months on, still reliable and running well. I have however, replaced the carbs and dizzy with stock items - van runs nicer on the stock items than ever did on the upgraded stuff.

Got my stock set-up from Spannerack - he may be able to supply you a set, and he always used to only supply stuff that he had driven, if you get my drift. Other breakers may also be able to help!

All the best
Emma

ps - Texy, if you fill in your profile, there may be a local member who can offer some assistance!

Post by **Simon Baxter** » 24 Aug 2006, 17:57

I have repair kits for the 2.0l distributor consisting of a new hall effect sensor.
01484 519 800, not cheap but a kazillion times better than retro bodging a crappy 009 on there, effectivley halfing the spark voltage, changing to an advance curve that isn't suited to the type 4 motor, and retarding number 3 cylinder...
Why people put them on is beyond me, they never run right.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 26 Aug 2006, 12:39

OK, if you rule out the idle stabilier (have you done that?)
and then the amplifier (same as a golf/passat/audi one generally)
then the hall sensor could well be the fault.. not easy to test and you can damage it by applying volts!!

The 009 will need to be set for about 5-10 deg BTDC static, to get it to start, but DO NOT drive it at that, you will need to set it to 12-15 deg BTDC to drive up the road, once its running set it to 30-32 deg max advance at 3000rpm+
If it still isnt starting you have problems elsewhere too.. prob the carbs..

Post by **toomanytoys** » 26 Aug 2006, 15:55

Yep you need to disconect the plugs from the box and join them together..