Top tip...
About 3 foot of garden hose and a small funnel, an assistant comes in handy too.. stick the end on the hose through the wheel arch and past the coolant pipes etc, (pig to get at with a 500ml squeezy) in the filler hole, then easy to top up/refill from outside..
Oh and the drain plug is a bugger to get at if you dont drop the protection bar.. you need a cheap type, short hex drain plug tool, it will just go in and crack it off with a ring spanner..
Bad gear selection
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toomanytoys
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KarlT
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Cheers for tips
I now think the problem is with the clutch.
It seems OK from a cold start but when warm it is not disengaging enough.
By removing floor-mats & pushing hard changing is OK 'ish'.
Clutch starts biting after 10mm of peddle travel.
Crawled under & had a look at clutch cylinder, couldn't see any leaks.
I now think the problem is with the clutch.
It seems OK from a cold start but when warm it is not disengaging enough.
By removing floor-mats & pushing hard changing is OK 'ish'.
Clutch starts biting after 10mm of peddle travel.
Crawled under & had a look at clutch cylinder, couldn't see any leaks.
Doug spotted that one after 3 posts, pretty common. Just bleed it through to start with, whole procedure is in Wiki too. See how you go, whether any signs of leaking or not and also keep an eye under the pedals for fluid there too.
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... isengaging
and if you really have never checked your box oil, maybe you should - one of the classic reasons they have a bad rep - and then its all too late.
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... isengaging
and if you really have never checked your box oil, maybe you should - one of the classic reasons they have a bad rep - and then its all too late.
Last edited by HarryMann on 24 Aug 2006, 18:53, edited 1 time in total.
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Syncro Kastenwagen / 16" Kombi Camper
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KarlT
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For those waiting with baited breath............
Bleed through the clutch, things seem much better,
( although only test drive round block. )
Loads of black crap came through ,
( can't ever of been bleed through as rubber cap was still on valve
)
Why..Oh Why does Haynes say do this from underneath (from where it would be impossible) Easy from engine bay? Only realized this after driving up on a couple of bricks, laying out blanket & burning arm on bloody exhaust. 
Bleed through the clutch, things seem much better,
( although only test drive round block. )
Loads of black crap came through ,
( can't ever of been bleed through as rubber cap was still on valve
) Why..Oh Why does Haynes say do this from underneath (from where it would be impossible
) Easy from engine bay? Only realized this after driving up on a couple of bricks, laying out blanket & burning arm on bloody exhaust. -
Simon Baxter
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Just check that there is no fluid inside the black rubber gaitor on the slave cylinder, the seals in the cylinder may have gone and could be the root of your problems, you shouldn't really have to bleed the system to get it to work again, if there is air in there it has come from somewhere and slave cylinder replacement is a fairly common task.
Also, just hope that the spigot bearing in the end of the crank hasn't gone, as again these go fairly regularly and cause symtoms like you describe.
Also, just hope that the spigot bearing in the end of the crank hasn't gone, as again these go fairly regularly and cause symtoms like you describe.
