Heater won't blow...........
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Miss Marple
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This is all sounding very encouraging... So, when the smoke started to appear, the fan had been running fine for ages (we were on a long journey). Would the fan just seize mid use even though it was running very nicely? Would be nice to be able to get the original fan going if indeed it is seized and not burnt out.
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CovKid
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No. Seizure is highly unlikely if it had been run very recently.
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This is all sounding very encouraging...
It does doesn't it... got me thinking too, maybe its is something I should try too, to get rid of that pre-seizure warble that some fans get - or is that a leaf stuck in there? And definitely worth 10 minutes a pop on those earth stars connectors.
Some great posts and I like CovKids pet shop tips - very novel stuff - cheap and useful T-Pieces too!
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Miss Marple
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HarryMann wrote:got me thinking too, maybe its is something I should try too
Okay, if you do it, I'll do it! Seriously, thanks for the advice. I was advised to WD40 the 4 screws that hold the box on about a week before I intend to attempt it... so I'll do that now so I have time to scratch my head and look at the situation. I'll let you know how I fare.
That would be the heater box?
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CovKid
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The threads of the four screws emerge (barely) through the front of the van (behind Rad I think) and clearly when the heater box has been in for some 20 odd years moisture tends to rust them. Must confess mine were a PIG to get out - the ones close to the steering column being the worst!
My view is if you're going to deal with this job (and inevitably we all have to at some point), use the opportunity to deal with all the other things I mentioned. You can also sort out any problems with the dash panel itself like a good clean and touchup - notably along top edge where its screwed down. More importantly perhaps, you'll be able to see what state the bottom of your windscreen seal is in (leaks).
The shear bolts on the steering column will usually come undone with mole grips by the way (I refitted mine the same way) but you don't need to remove entire column as Haynes described - just drop it out of the way by undoing the upper bolts.
If you have to change the entire unit or dismantle it (possible) then you'll need to disconnect the heater radiator hoses and top-up and rebleed cooling system after. Take the time to ensure the foam seals around orafices on the heater unit are all in good order (we don't want draughts now do we?) and put back when you refit unit. You could make your own if any are shot.
Incidentally, the first time I had experience of a seized unit was in driving rain on the M1. I went to switch the blower on (hadn't had bus long) and it promptly blew the wiper fuse - doh. It was SIX miles before I found somewhere I could stop to replace the fuse!
I did buy a second hand blower unit (and incidentally there are subtle differences between earlier and late blowers) but managed to free off the original as described in this thread but you can only get to the blower itself through the two holes behind the unit (ie facing front of vehicle). Normally a turn by hand and some WD will do it. Haynes say its possible to open the unit (sourcing new clips for reassembly apparently) but I found I could get to things ok once unit was pulled back.
E D I T:
If anyone gets as far as removing the blower itself and finds the brushes are gone, heres a good tip. Try a lawnmower shop for brushes! They have loads in all different sizes and you can usually find a pair that will fit - even if a little rubbing down is required to ensure they do fit. Done this with Beetle wiper motors in the past.
My view is if you're going to deal with this job (and inevitably we all have to at some point), use the opportunity to deal with all the other things I mentioned. You can also sort out any problems with the dash panel itself like a good clean and touchup - notably along top edge where its screwed down. More importantly perhaps, you'll be able to see what state the bottom of your windscreen seal is in (leaks).
The shear bolts on the steering column will usually come undone with mole grips by the way (I refitted mine the same way) but you don't need to remove entire column as Haynes described - just drop it out of the way by undoing the upper bolts.
If you have to change the entire unit or dismantle it (possible) then you'll need to disconnect the heater radiator hoses and top-up and rebleed cooling system after. Take the time to ensure the foam seals around orafices on the heater unit are all in good order (we don't want draughts now do we?) and put back when you refit unit. You could make your own if any are shot.
Incidentally, the first time I had experience of a seized unit was in driving rain on the M1. I went to switch the blower on (hadn't had bus long) and it promptly blew the wiper fuse - doh. It was SIX miles before I found somewhere I could stop to replace the fuse!
I did buy a second hand blower unit (and incidentally there are subtle differences between earlier and late blowers) but managed to free off the original as described in this thread but you can only get to the blower itself through the two holes behind the unit (ie facing front of vehicle). Normally a turn by hand and some WD will do it. Haynes say its possible to open the unit (sourcing new clips for reassembly apparently) but I found I could get to things ok once unit was pulled back.
E D I T:
If anyone gets as far as removing the blower itself and finds the brushes are gone, heres a good tip. Try a lawnmower shop for brushes! They have loads in all different sizes and you can usually find a pair that will fit - even if a little rubbing down is required to ensure they do fit. Done this with Beetle wiper motors in the past.
Thanks for all those contributions above everyone: Wik'd!
Help on heater blower diagnosis, cure or replacement
Whenever screw threads protrude and rust, I first wire brush when dry (long single row ones are as handy as the big 'uns), then penoil. If they're of the No.3 size or larger and well supported (heavy metal behind), then might try an impact screwdriver to initially loosen. Screw back in a bit, repeat wire-brush/penoil, then work them out slowly. Once they're a bit loose can spray threads from front as well.
As we all know, half heartedly attacking with wrong screwdriver or not enough bodyweight behind it to start with, can be regretted in less time than it takes to find the right driver or bit.
Miss Marple: Good try, but I can't with hand on heart say I accept, lots of welding and other stuff todo on 2 vehicles - fan works OK but warples - but there's plenty of support and encouragement here it seems
Help on heater blower diagnosis, cure or replacement
Whenever screw threads protrude and rust, I first wire brush when dry (long single row ones are as handy as the big 'uns), then penoil. If they're of the No.3 size or larger and well supported (heavy metal behind), then might try an impact screwdriver to initially loosen. Screw back in a bit, repeat wire-brush/penoil, then work them out slowly. Once they're a bit loose can spray threads from front as well.
As we all know, half heartedly attacking with wrong screwdriver or not enough bodyweight behind it to start with, can be regretted in less time than it takes to find the right driver or bit.
Miss Marple: Good try, but I can't with hand on heart say I accept, lots of welding and other stuff todo on 2 vehicles - fan works OK but warples - but there's plenty of support and encouragement here it seems
Last edited by HarryMann on 25 Aug 2006, 21:05, edited 1 time in total.
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Miss Marple
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Miss Marple wrote:Great tips... still not attempted it yet as we've been away. Is there any information anywhere regarding bleeding the heating system? I'm sure it's not rocket science but I've never attempted it before!
switch the valve to cold, and clamp the heater pipes by the heater, and refill the heater when you refit it and you will not need to bleed it.
Steve
tel / txt O7947-137911
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tel / txt O7947-137911
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1989 2.1LpgWBX HiTop Leisuredrive Camper
1988 2.1 Auto Caravelle TS TinTop Camper