Bad gear selection

Post by **KarlT** » 19 Aug 2006, 15:41

Hi All

All of a sudden, ie last 36 hrs/ 20 miles, gear selection has gone from pretty good to bloody awful. Having to jam it in there.

All gears.

Is there something that could of moved/fallen out?

Seems too sudden for wear.

Post by **HarryMann** » 19 Aug 2006, 15:59

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... l_specific

At least 2 of these Wiki topics might apply...

Is this a 5 speeder? Is it noisy?

What do you mean - having to 'jam' i in there, you mean hold it in gear, or push extra hard..

I think if you go underneath and inspect the selection mechaism from fron to back you'll idn the answer... first check that at the back the selector arm can be moved into all the gears with a reasonable firm click and stays securely in... its diffiicult to say from here, but by manipulating it and or holding it while someone selects gears from the cab, its not too difficult to discover where the problem lies.

For instance, by watching the bottom of the lever as it goes into the cab-floor ball and cup joint, whether there's a great deal of play there, or not.

What has been replaced in the mechaism in the time you've had the van...

and have yo also checked the box and drive flange seals for transmission oil leaks, it does smell characteristically sweet, some with overtones of cat pee

Post by **syncrodoug** » 19 Aug 2006, 17:56

It could be clutch related - have you lost any hydraulic fliud?

Post by **clash460** » 19 Aug 2006, 18:40

Hi Karl
had a similar problem about a month or so ago
gear change went downhill rapidly over a short period of time/miles
noticed increased gear lever travel, then changing from 2nd to 3rd when slowing down in traffic the lever came away in my hand
after initial panic started laughing my head off
lever had split at the point where the grub screw is
stuck a screw driver in the lever hole and limped home
phoned CJ and he sent me another (fantastic service)overnight
he also said it is not un common
good luck
Gary

Post by **Russel** » 19 Aug 2006, 18:56

Snaping a gear leaver is a common problem.(age fatigue)U cant weld it because it is a composite metal and VW will set u back in exess of £140 for the stick.

Post by **Ian_Fearn** » 19 Aug 2006, 20:00

My Syncro seems to struggle going into first only. All other gears are fine and the box is super smooth.

Is this likely to be wear on the linkage? The van has done 290000KM.

Post by **HarryMann** » 19 Aug 2006, 23:06

My Syncro seems to struggle going into first only. All other gears are fine and the box is super smooth.

Is this from stationary or on the move...
From stationary, then maybe clutch isn't diisengaging fully (dragging abit)

It may clunk a bit when it goes in , may not, but if you can double-de-clutch into first easily from 2nd when slowing down, good chance the clutch might just be dragging a bit.

It might also be the position of the rear bush bellows, the front one, preventing the selector from going full home.

Possible but less unlikley box is the problem - you should really be able to tell if the clutch is dragging thouigh, first of all - eliminate that

Post by **KarlT** » 20 Aug 2006, 00:01

HarryMann wrote:http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... l_specific

Is this a 5 speeder?

Is it noisy?

you mean hold it in gear,

What has been replaced in the mechaism in the time you've had the van...

Thanks for replies

I guess yes, 4 & crawler

No, not noisy

No, just tough to get into gear

Nothing been replaced since I've had it, don't know any history.

Will get out & check play, but was wondering if there was something known for working loose.

Clutch feels same as always.

Post by **HarryMann** » 20 Aug 2006, 00:14

Clutch feels same as always.

Yes, but is this as you go into first when stationary (ther are other times)
Clutch might feel much the same even when its just starting to drag, if say, the clutch slave cylinder is going.

Have you tried pumping the clutch pedal and then pushing into first?
Tickover is correct, not too high?

is this a position thing, and if you get the exact left~right psition right it goes in OK, o-wise doesn't > then maybe its the selctor detents getting burred or knocked off under cab floor. You're pushing against the detent, not the gear.
You can normally feel (through the lever) the gear synchromesh trying to speed up (whining) and resisting if the clucth is dragging.

Any probs with reverse as well?
(that wouldn't be a good sign)

Post by **Ian_Fearn** » 20 Aug 2006, 10:01

HarryMann wrote:
My Syncro seems to struggle going into first only. All other gears are fine and the box is super smooth.

Is this from stationary or on the move...
From stationary, then maybe clutch isn't diisengaging fully (dragging abit)

It may clunk a bit when it goes in , may not, but if you can double-de-clutch into first easily from 2nd when slowing down, good chance the clutch might just be dragging a bit.

It might also be the position of the rear bush bellows, the front one, preventing the selector from going full home.

Possible but less unlikley box is the problem - you should really be able to tell if the clutch is dragging thouigh, first of all - eliminate that

I get it from stationary, on the 2nd or third attempt to engage it, it normally goes in. The selector doesnt half feel sloppy when trying to engage reverse and first yet the other gears dont seem too bad.

Post by **HarryMann** » 20 Aug 2006, 11:52

If you look in the Wiki, there is a complete description of refurbing the whole selector shaft mechanism from the repair to the lever's floor ball joint, right through to transaxle's selector arm ball and cup joint.

http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... _improving

Post by **Ian_Fearn** » 20 Aug 2006, 13:23

Are these bushes dealer only jobs?

What sort of money am i looking at? If they're reasonably priced i'll do the lot in one go.

Post by **HarryMann** » 20 Aug 2006, 13:26

the front repair kit is quite a bit, think it says in Wiki. £40 inc maybe

Check that you need that.

the erst of the bushes are well worth getting, the two, the rear one and the middle one (not too bad to do on asyncro) and are justa few quid each.Check the rubber gaiters, and see if you can make do, unless really split or disintegrated. they will start to add up. You do want to keep muck out in the future though.

There were some part no changes. But think you want to get a D and an E part at least. One is like a bellows and the other a nylon bush with a deep helical grrove inside it. The true original shaft diameter at the bush bearing surface seems to be 20mm IIRC, and you have a mic or a vernier caliper. They were down 20 thou, and when 30 or 40 even with a new bush starting to get sloppy.

Post by **KarlT** » 24 Aug 2006, 07:10

Just an update..............

Jumped in yesterday morning and the gear selection was back to normal, Not great but OK.

Although having driven about 4 miles it was bad again.

What do you think?

Low, No oil?

Will check when I've got time.

Post by **HarryMann** » 24 Aug 2006, 09:48

Well, you should definitely first check the oil level in the box, before going any further with this. In fact, get all the gear together to do it (500ml squeezy bottle with long tube) make sure you can get the filler plug out OK, and drain through a muslin cloth or gauze checking the magnetic drain plug too. You never know what you might find. A small fir tree is normal, larger bits or a lot of bronze in the tree and time to start wondering.
I'm using Comma SX 75W/90 semi synth, others too, or Redline MT90.. these give a slightly better change when oil really cold. But clean oil and enough of it (just below the filler plug) is pre-requisite. The main site of weeps and leaks are the drive-shaft flange seals, which can be done fairly easily - you should be able to spot that one, or into the bellhousing via the input shaft seal, particularly if the flywheel's spigot shaft bearing has broken up.