Timing belt procedure

[Vodim]

I am in the middle of changing the timing belt. Never done this before.

I rotated the engine to find TDC. Looked in the little inspection hole for when arrow was aligned with the marking. Was very difficult to see but the camshaft slot aligned with cylinder head so I figured I did it right. I then did the feeler gauge procedure but I didn’t want to turn the engine counter wise in order to take it back a couple of tenths in order to get the other gauge in. So I turned the cam shaft one whole turn to get the other gauge in correctly but now when I look in the inspection hole the arrow is not aligned anymore. Why is this?

[Vodim]

I would say the arrow is now roughly 10 mm off the mark

[Vodim]

To clarify:

I turn the engine to TDC arrow. I can now get in the locking plate (2065A) but just about…. Much bigger gap on one side of the cylinder head than the other. I then do the next step with the feeler gauges to “center” the camshaft relative to cylinder head. This puts TDC arrow about 10 mm off. Now I cannot not to step three, locking injection pump sprocket as pin 2064 will not go in. However, if I just center TDC arrow the pin goes in. So my only choice seems to be to continue with camshaft a little off “center”. Is that ok?

[multisi]

Whats the feeler gauge for, i cant remember using one for this job, used the   Russek work shop manual.

[clift_d]

Feeler gauges are used at each of the cam locking plate (VAG 2065A) to ensure that it and the timing slot are properly aligned to the cylinder head.

Given the discrepancies you are finding between the various timing marks it might be better to get everything located independently using the 2046 locating pin, feeler shims, and the flywheel mark, etc, so that you effectively reset the correct timing before installing the new belt.

[mioba]

Loosen the camshaft sprocket when its all aligned. Make sure you lock the fuel pump they do move and can be a PITA.

One tooth out and they are bloody hard work to get one.

Do not tighten the cashaft using the locking g bar. Make a tool if you are handy with a welder.

[mioba]

The cam bar fits flat to the head. If you turned it 180 the locking plate wont fit flat.

[mioba]

get it right these are inter lfence engines. if wrong your valves will kiss or worse hammer the pistons

They are very high compression.

[Vodim]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll make sure to follow your advice when I get to fitting and setting up the new belt.
 My immediate problem is actually getting the V-belt pulley off the crankshaft. It’s held by the four allen bolts and they are extremely tight. When I try to undo them, I just rotate the crankshaft/engine instead.
 If I leave the injection pump locking pin in, it ends up acting as the stop when I put force on the bolts, which I assume is a bad idea and risks damaging something. But if I remove the locking pin, the engine simply turns — and since I have already loosened the timing-belt tensioner as per the removal procedure, I’m reluctant to keep turning the crankshaft with the belt slack.
 So at the moment I’m a bit stuck. What is the correct way to hold the crankshaft while undoing those four V-belt pulley bolts at this stage?

[Vodim]

Ok, got it all off now. Had to drop the exhaust as well. Nuts for crank wheel and water pump wheel were a nightmare.

[mioba]

Use two allen keys the same size on the pulley bolts. and work them against each other.


The bottom pulley must come off.

Use coppalip on everything you put back

And change the tensioner. Essential. Belts dont fail it is the tensuoner.

All well priced from Brickwerks.

[mioba]

oh and replace any allen bolts that start to round off.

Will save you torture in 5 years.

[Vodim]

Thanks!

About new bolts.... can I just buy "standard" ones or do I need to look for a specific quality?

[clift_d]

Brickwerks list high strength ones (grade 10.9) for the waterpump pulley so it would probably be advisable to use similar.

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/socket ... 10-geomet/

[mioba]

Thanks!

About new bolts.... can I just buy "standard" ones or do I need to look for a specific quality?

Buy whats right for the car. Dont cut corners it will bite you later.
Plus you have the satisfaction of knowing it is done properly.