Engine cutting out and instrument lights go out

[simonmarsh]

Hello everyone- I have an issue with my 1980 cu 2 litre air cooled cutting out. Starts okay but will cut out and both ignition lights go out. I thought I had solved it as I found some wiring inside the column housing that was damaged but has proved not to be the case.
We’re supposed to be travelling to the Lake District this weekend so am up against it and have to admit am worried about it. It will sometimes fire up again so am assuming bad connection somewhere? I believe it’s the thick red and red and black wires that keep the ignition running but are these the wires that need to remain connected/ bridged for the ignition to remain on? I have tried shorting these with an extra piece of wire as a test but no joy. Is there another wire / wires that are involved to keep the ignition on? I have bought a new ignition switch but not fitted yet.
any help or advice greatly appreciated- thank you

[simonmarsh]

Also, I have bought a new ignition switch which has more pins than the existing and doesn’t appear to fit - are these universal? I have looked at a couple of other suppliers websites and they have the same one listed as being compatible?
Thanks again for any suggestions or advice

[Aidan]

ignition switch should be 111 905 865 L
you should be able to plug it into your loom and operate it with a screwdriver, but you need the key in the ignition to release the steering lock
First point of call is old switch, big bunches of keys do damage over time

[simonmarsh]

Thanks very much Aidan I will try to change the ignition switch today

[simonmarsh]

Hello again- I have replaced the ignition switch- obviously had to remove the steering wheel etc - at the risk of/ probability of confirming my ignorance (although I am worried about this but hopefully without cause?) during removing and replacing the ignition switch and barrel, the steering coupling slid apart a little- I noticed when there wasn’t enough thread to get the steering wheel back on! I have removed-done the work and pushed the coupling/ joint back together and all seems fine now but is this usual? Ie nothing to worry about?
Thanks again
Ps also a copper tab fell out of the switch cluster when I removed it (!) now high beam / flash doesn’t seem to work- would anyone know where this tab / connection should be located within the switch ring / cluster (the one that has indicator and wipers?)
Thanks again

[hotpod]

Photos would really help Simon.
I relation to your original question, could you confirm that your battery cables are done up tight?
I know quite a few people who think it is ok to just wedge them on so they dont have to look for a spanner, they can occasionally pop of whilst driving which will cut the engine and the lights will go out.

[simonmarsh]

Thanks very much-I’m not sure how to add photos from my phone I’m afraid- I will try on my laptop when home
Battery is properly fixed and connected though
The van seems to run okay (or did ) when I test drove it but now won’t turn over and no solenoid click! I have to admit I have just given up for the day and am resigned to not making it to the Lake District this weekend
Battery is fully charged and there is permanent live to the solenoid but I’m not getting any power the other side (nearest the starter)
Very frustrated and fed up!
Thanks again for the replies

[silverbullet]

Use a photo hosting site such as postimg.cc to generate a forum hotlink, now that imgur is effectively dead to UK users withput an eu vpn.

[simonmarsh]

Thank you