Replacing rear drive shaft

[Beakster]

Hi,

I've got a knocking under load from the rear right which I believe is the drive shaft on my 1984 T25.

It will be my first time replacing a drive shaft. This is what I have ordered from Brickwerks to do the job

CV Joint Bolt lock washer - T3 / M8 x 12
ALT Driveshaft - T3 / Rear / Late / ALTERNATIVE x 1
Socket Head Cap Screw - M8x1.25 / 50mm | 12.9 | Zinc Flake x 12
Spreader Plate - T3 / CV Joint X 6

Am I right in thinking that once the shaft is in, I put the spreader plate and then the lock washers? What's the point of the spreader plate?

Can I do this in a drive way with just hand tools? Any other tips for this repair?

Thanks

[shepster]

Make sure they are 'built' correctly, by that I mean the one side of the inner race has shamfer on it which goes towards the shaft not the wheel/gearbox.

Also they need to be 'clocked' spend a little time on Google and look for videos (yes I'm old) on rebuilding and clocking T25 CV joints, apart from that you seem to have everything you need.

[silverbullet]

CV's don't need to be "clocked" like a UJ because they are Constant Velocity joints. The clue is in the name.

TO OP: the spreader plates are to distribute the clamping load from the bolt heads more evenly acros the thin flange of the boot, its to prevent them working loose.

Its a job that is best done with the swingarm jacked up (use chassis stands too!) so that you can rotate the shaft and get access to the bolt heads and torque them properly.

If you leave the wheel on then a suitable chock can be used to hold it while tightening the bolts.

[Beakster]

Got the job done today. It was a bit tricky getting some of the bolts to catch the thread.

As I was replacing a whole drive shaft I didn't have access to both sides of each CV, only the outside, so worked the grease in as much as I could and used a full packet for each side, so hopefully it gets fully distributed when driving