dcworm57 wrote: ↑08 Oct 2025, 17:54
What’s the best method to remove these ?
If they are the kind with the large hex at the back end you will need a 27mm open ended spanner, but there's a bit more to it. I used a 1+1/16 AF vintage tractor spanner which is a real beast of an open ender, and a jack to rotate it, after applying lots of diesel over several days.
If that fails, then a large stillson wrench might work, but will probably ruin the radius rod.
I got the second one off and it’s pretty bad , worn 1/3 of the way through in the threads , I’m going to h a e to replace them . Ok so a few days of WD40 and some heat and I have managed to get them out , hallelujah. Also the radius rod mounts are pretty bad , delaminated and well worn . I borrowed a mig welder and have welded a decent plate front and back so that’s that sorted . Hopefully start to rebuild soon and then on to the rear
So just for an update , all front bushes and ball joints have been replaced and I’m about to start rebuilding it all .
So the camber is going to have to be reset I would say , I marked the wishbone washers for a guide ( I’m fitting Brickwerks high lift kit aswell) . Can I adjust the camber myself , what tools, gauges would I need .
Once front end is all together it will be into the back end for the same treatment .. fingers crossed eh ..
You can set the caster and the camber with a digital protractor and a bubble level, and the toe with jack stands, string and measuring rod/tape measure.
Zoltan
1986 Multivan ex-Caravelle. Van since 2006, running mTDi 1Z since 2008 with Fiat Croma 1.9 TDid pump 2008-2019, custom pump since 2019
5spd custom box 4.57 diff + 0.74 5th
dcworm57 wrote: ↑25 Oct 2025, 08:03
So just for an update , all front bushes and ball joints have been replaced and I’m about to start rebuilding it all .
So the camber is going to have to be reset I would say , I marked the wishbone washers for a guide ( I’m fitting Brickwerks high lift kit aswell) . Can I adjust the camber myself , what tools, gauges would I need .
Once front end is all together it will be into the back end for the same treatment .. fingers crossed eh ..
Ok so another update , OS is all back together and torqued up , however once all torqued the lower ball joint is incredibly tight it’s very hard to turn the hub by hand . I bought this ball joint as new in a job lot of other gear . Anyway all connected up to track rod it still feels tight turning with steering wheel . I have left it hoping it might be ok when engine is running and power steering working . So I have continued to build up the the NS , fitted lower ball joint ( New Febi ) , without the track rod connected the hub turns nicely but the back of the hub catches on the nut and thread of the lower ball joint , I ground off a bit to give some clearance but is still catching . I have taken photos and sent off to supplier so see what happens . I’m probably just going to buy two new other brand and fit them and hopefully that will sort the stiffness and catching .. .
to clarify you have late set up with cast lower control arms, yes ?
How did you fit the new lower ball joints, do you have the VW tool 351 for pressing them out and in which is designed to clear the steering knuckle/front upright whilst keep the forces perpendicular to the hole
when you say hub you mean the steering knuckle/front upright ? The hub on a 2wd is effectively the brake disc and there is no way it will rub on the ball joint which is on the backside of the knuckle
when fitted the ball joint threaded end is uppermost and then the tapered end fits into the end of the lower control arm and the nut will fit on the threads and clear the steering knuckle as it is tightened up and when the ball joint is fitted into the knuckle fully, the snap ring will just fit in its groove with a very small gap between it and the knuckle
I wonder if the ball joints are the correct ones, or if they have been damaged whilst fitting them, obviously a picture is worth a thousand words - if you have a brickyard account you can host pics on there and use links to insert into posts on here or if you use facebook I believe you can use that but it may be time limited
the steering knuckle/front upright should rotate under hand pressure and should not be super tight - there have been some ball joints that were not the correct outer diameter which may I guess compress internally when pressed in and become excessively tight
did you do one side at a time so you had the other side as reference to ensure you stripped it and assembled it correctly - you may need vehicle weight (or a jack under) to endure the ball joint tapered end is fully mated with the lower control arm and the nut done up fully
Yes I have the late set up cast LCA
I had the new lower ball joints pressed in by my local garage , I took the steering knuckles (not hubs sorry ) off the van and down to their workshop
