Non starter after a couple of years not used

[kiwirob]

Thanks
Yep done that. No vibration and no sound of priming.
Checked relay 53 on right side of box. Can hear click.
Open t junction for fuel input. Nothing coming out.
Therefore don’t know next step.
Have checked wiring at pump. Seems to not show 12 volts.
Thanks for all your help so far.
Rob

[maxstu]

There will on be a split second vibration from fuel pump on first turn of key. It is priming the engine. The pump will only run continuously once engine has started.

If nothing. And both relays are functioning. Then the ECU needs checking.

[kiwirob]

I’ll check the left relay.
I’ve done that on the right hand one 53.
How do I do the other one? Sorry to be such a novice. But I am learning. Lol.
Rob

[maxstu]

They are the same number relay. So swap them over and listen for a click. Or remove from holder and test with a 12v battery. Live & neg across the numbers 85 and 86.

[kiwirob]

Done
Both relays are working.
I’m going under again. My testing skills aren’t great so I’ll persevere with checking power at the pump.
That seems my only avenue apart from ecu.
Do we agree?
Rob

[maxstu]

Yes. Recheck pump. As l said. Turning key to first position will prime pump for one second only. You may have missed it. Ideally a pal turns key while you place hand on pump to feel it vibrate.

[kiwirob]

Ok
I’m taking this as positive.
I get 15.5v at the battery. I get 9.8v at the pump on turn over.
Please tell me I’m making progress.
Rob

[kiwirob]

When I take leads off pump. With key on, I get nothing. Should I get a reading? Battery level?
Thanks again.
Rob

[maxstu]

Ok
I’m taking this as positive.
I get 15.5v at the battery. I get 9.8v at the pump on turn over.
Please tell me I’m making progress.
Rob

Nice pun!

15.5v! Are you sure? With engine running that figure would be classic symptom of overcharging due to faulty alternator or regulator malfunction.

14.4v with engine running is tops.
15.5v is boiling battery dry and damaging the plates.

[maxstu]

When I take leads off pump. With key on, I get nothing. Should I get a reading? Battery level?
Thanks again.
Rob

Only for a second. Purely to prime the pump. As engine is cranked and starts ECU via relay will decide to give continuous 12 volts to pump.

[maxstu]

I'm coming up your way April 11th. Driving to Stoke Mandeville. I need to pick up something around 1-2pm.
Then onto Edgcott near Bicester. I could call past with another ECU and fuel pump.
Are you about?

[Robsey]

I was going to say the same thing about the voltages.

With a happily ticking-over engine, you could hope for about 14.5 to 14.9 volts.

For a cranking or still engine , I would expect between 12.7 and 13.2 volts.

Any further reduction in voltage would point towards dirty or corroded connections. Especially towards the grounds.

[kiwirob]

Maxstu
I saw your post from 2020 to Adam.Neil.
There’s still no priming. I’ll try the direct route next. Battery direct to pump. Then check for earth issues on the neg side.
Good idea?
Rob

[maxstu]

Yes. You should make sure you have a working fuel pump. I would remove the pump to test. So you don't accidentally run it in reverse with fuel inside.
Also consider changing fuel filter. It may be blocked.

[kiwirob]

Maxstu
Brilliant!!!
Defs will be around on the 11th.
Give me a call so we can arrange a suitable time.
Rob
07733451453