1.9DG electrics

[Robsey]

- your dizzy drive appears to be 90° out. It was the first thing I saw,

A keener eye than mine - but that would be more than enough to stop the van from starting.

[Bumblebee1]

That means I have to remove the dizzy rotor arm , find the right position and slot it back in , I believe there is a special tool to do that , just found it online EMPI5717 and only available from USA , is there any other way of extracting the rotor without the special tool ?

[Robsey]

I think you are over thinking this.
You shouldn't need a tool to remove and refit the rotor arm.
Only if you wanted to remove the hall unit inside.
(The four vaned assembly). But that should not be necessary.

Rotate the distributor body so that the lead for plug lead one lines up with the datum line on the engine casing.
The rotor should also be pointing at plug lead one position.

Approx 4 o'clock position when looking in through the rear of the van.

See the image above from the VW manual.

The rotor should only fit on the shaft in one position.
And the shaft should only fit the distibutor drive gear in one position.

[Bumblebee1]

First of all thank you all for your support and “patience “ , I did not mention a very important aspect of my engine, when I bought the bus it was stood in a barn for about 10 years, it had an lpg system installed which I have removed as I really don’t want it, the engine was “refurbished “ about 20k before put into storage and the compression on all cylinders was 12.5-13 bar but it was leaking through every joint so I decided to take it apart give it a good clean and replace all gaskets, sealant and orings , when I put it back together I did make sure I put the timing right but I have a feeling I have installed the distributor drive shaft in a wrong position so now when I try to adjust the distributor by the manual it doesn’t match the position, the distributor itself is an electronic one so a bit confused about adjusting it as per manual as it doesn’t look like the original one , I shall start from basics tonight and check the valve clearance and go from there , I know the timing inside the engine is right as when I have it on TDC I have no 1 up where it should be. Please don’t judge me for doing this on my own but this whole project is a labour of love for me and I am learning as I go
Many thanks again
Cosmin

[Robsey]

Okay - this isn't ideal, so the way I see it.

Put the No 1 piston into it's TDC position.
Where it stops moving towards the plug hole.

Wherever your rotor is pointing towards, set line in the distributor body in-line to it.

Hopefully a distributor contact will also line up.
Make this your plug lead number one contact.

Then fit the remaining leads in the correct firing order.

It isn't uncommon to be a full 180° out. (Or half turn) of the distributor.

See if that makes a difference.

[Cecil]

I know the timing inside the engine is right as when I have it on TDC I have no 1 up where it should be.

Cosmin

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Are you aware there are 2 times in the 4 stroke cycle when the piston is at the top of the stroke and the tdc mark aligns , only one of which is the correct time for the spark to be delivered!

[Bumblebee1]

Thank you for the info , I am aware of that , my problem I believe lies with the aftermarket distributor that the bus came with and the fact that the shaft for it is not in the factory position, will have to jiggle with it a bit or try sourcing the original ignition (distributor, TCI and wiring)

[ajsimmo]

A keener eye than mine - but that would be more than enough to stop the van from starting.

No, it wouldn't. With the plug leads moved around one and the dizzy body rotated to time it to the mark it should run fine. Looks wrong though, because it is.
I'd have to pull the drive out (the part UNDER the dizzy) and re-index (no1 on tdc, smaller section on top of shaft toward water pump, align slot with bolt hole, insert). Check the two thrust washers under the drive are in place before insertion. Then your dizzy notch will line up correctly on 1, and plug leads will all sit right.

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

[ajsimmo]

That means I have to remove the dizzy rotor arm , find the right position and slot it back in , I believe there is a special tool to do that , just found it online EMPI5717 and only available from USA , is there any other way of extracting the rotor without the special tool ?

Magnet on a stick. I also use a bit of threaded bar ground to a point (remove the spring first!)

Sent from my moto g(30) using Tapatalk

[Bumblebee1]

This is the distributor I have , the one that came with the bus , I can’t tell what brand /model it is and no mark for no 1 alignment on it

[Bumblebee1]

Thank you all , sorted , the conrods got caught on the edge keeping the valves open on 2,3 and 4

[Bumblebee1]

Ok so got it running now , it used about 5 Ltd of petrol in about 15 minutes of running, smoking worse than me and as soon as the engine warm up and choke starts to disengage revs are going way high