Temp gauge

[southernscouse]

Today went back to basics put everything back together removed the earth crowns cleaned again clean and checked terminals removed crowns and cleaned back to bare metal applied Vaseline switched on ignition still light flashing and gauge to hot

[AngeloEvs]

It’s a 1986 van the dj has the plastic thermostat housing with 2 sensors not sure what you mean by thermostat switch can’t see one in the Haynes thanks

The plastic thermostat housing has two electrical components, both look identical, one faces to the side and the other to the front of the van. The one facing the front of the van is the temperature sender that connects to the gauge, the one facing to the side of the van is, according to Haynes, for the 2.1 injected DJ and is different, that one is for the fuel injection IIRC. However, the Haynes shows a thermal switch for the manifold heaters, etc and shown as a switch and part of the cooling system. Might be worth checking that the temperature gauge is connected to the correct sensor ( facing front), colour code of the wire to the temp sender is Yellow/ Red

[southernscouse]

Been under the van one red/yellow other brown on sensor to front

[southernscouse]

Also should note although it is 2.1dj wires are all as before when it was 1.9dg also still on carb so other sensor is the carb heater

[AngeloEvs]

Reading through your posts Tom, are you saying that the temp gauge needle rises to the overheat position and the LED continually flashes as soon as you start the engine or after the engine has been started, driven for a few miles and warmed up?

[southernscouse]

As soon as I turn on the i

[southernscouse]

Soon as I turn on ignition

[AngeloEvs]

I would remove the yellow/red cable from the temperature Sender in the thermostat housing, switch ignition on and test. If the fault is still there with ignition on, then measure resistance across the yellow/red wire and the brown wire. I It should be quite high but if it’s a low resistance (around 60ohms or less) then there is a problem with the wiring somewhere, if the fault clears with the wires disconnected then measure the resistance across the sender terminals - it should be a few hundred ohms. Remove module 43 and disconnect the 14 pin multiconnector at the dash to eliminate them and measure the resistance again, it should be very high.

[southernscouse]

With plug disconnected gauge straight to hot and light flashes
Disconnected this is my reading and I have continuity

[AngeloEvs]

There is a short circuit across the gauge and explains why your gauge is behaving like it is. You need to eliminate the dash itself, the wiring from dash to sender and the module 42 (43).

First, remove module 42 (43) and switch ignition on to see if that clears the fault.

If the fault is still there then the only thing left is the dash itself or a possible short circuit in the loom.

Leave the module 42 disconnected.

Remove the dash 14 pin multiconnector and repeat the measurement test. You can take the measurement test at the multiconnector by placing the meter probes into the multiconnector where the yellow/red wire is and across to where the brown wire is fitted. If the reading is still very low then there is a short circuit in the wiring itself somewhere between the dash connector and the sender.

If the the reading is now high with the multiconnector disconnected then the fault is with the dash. It could be the SHC kit wiring is not correct. You can test possibility by measuring the resistance across the temperature gauge (with the multiconnector disconnected).

The temperature gauge has three nuts that secure it and also have wiring that connect each nut to the SHC kit. The centre nut is earth. Place a meter probe into the centre nut ant the other probe to each of the other two nuts and measure the resistance. A very low reading indicates a short circuit and most likely an error in the wiring to the gauge.

[southernscouse]

Angelo hope you have patience and your thinking head on pulling 43 made no difference
Connected a wire from the yel/red to14 wire plug I have continuity
Connected a wire from brown to plug I have continuity with brown term 3but also with 1-2-3. 5. 8-9. 13

Term 6 is yel/red
Now the best bit put all back together switch on red stays flashing gauge moves up to hot but in stages in time with the seconds of the clock
This is the gauge you returned to me when putting the meter on it touching the nuts gave no readings but if I touch the circuit board under them I get 160.0 and 190.0 as I have said before do I need an exorcism

[AngeloEvs]

Module 43 (42) is eliminated as a potential cause as removing it did not cure the problem. Not quite sure I understand what you mean when you refer to the circuit under the nuts if you have removed the blue membrane circuit and fitted an SHC kit. Post a pic of the SHC kit and wiring.

I wonder if you have a problem with the dash, do you know anyone who has a 1986 onwards van ( with buzzer of doom) that would let you try their dash in your van?

If not, if you are not using the van for a few days send me your dash and I will bench test it for you and check there is no fault with it.

[southernscouse]

Well I am hoping to day is a better day put in an old dash set that has some damage but temp and petrol gauges working so I think that means my wiring is ok so I will take up your offer and post my dash .my next planned trip is to Busfest but if I have to can manage with just the two gauges never going to break any speed limits in a gipsy

[southernscouse]

Received the dash today fitted this afternoon all working as it should (yes I did swop the temp gauge) taking it for a run tomorrow thanks again Angelo onwards and upwards

[AngeloEvs]

Glad it is finally sorted. Have you contacted SHC about the faulty PCB?