Temp gauge

[southernscouse]

Ok van not in regular use last week run red light carried on flashing checked w after level carried on driving after several miles temp burst into life red light stops park up for two days on start up red light flashes stays on te ck levels ok after short drive all back to normal park at home for week on start up no flashing temp light sequence and needle not moving
I have a slaughterhouse wiring kit and due to previous problems the cleanest earth crowns in the world
What do I have to do

[Mocki]

Check the connections of the temp gauge sender in the engine bay ???

[southernscouse]

Ok I will check the wiring again the sender itself is less than 2 months old Thanks

[Aidan]

level sensor 'relay' out and in a few times to clean contacts - if there's leak on windscreen seal (there usually is) then condensation moisture corrosion can be an issue it's working with really low current input

[southernscouse]

Right got back to the engine to check wiring this being a gipsy it’s a bit of a faff first thing I did was wiggle the level sensor wire bingo all working again have only done 500miles since putting in this engine all sensors Are new but obviously not the wires or connectors will be putting another 300miles on it at the weekend going to T3 meet Thanks Tom

[southernscouse]

Right checked all levels before set off to the T3 meet all ok but no flashing light or temp gauge 60 miles along light flashes for 14 seconds then goes out and temp gauge starts working all ok for rest of the journey
Saturday night checked levels started the van all working ok
Leaving Sunday no light no temp gauge did about 40 odd miles got the flashing light but no temp gauge
Levels ok so carried on a few miles on light stops and gauge works
So today started up constant flashing light no gauge
Unplugged started again still constant flash
Bridged plug started again still flashes
Replaced sender which is new and all working as it should again hope this is the end all info greatly recieved from this site and samba. Thanks all

[southernscouse]

Today after using the van with no interior bits in the way for awhile and all working as it should
Moved the van off the drive all ok switched off put dog and Mrs in
Start van light flashes constantly I know levels are ok drive off with light flashing temp gauge working ok
Drive six miles with light flashing temp gauge in the middle
Stop have a beer on start light still flashing temp gauge working
Drive six miles still the same
Stop drink more beer start up all working ok
Switch off to get on drive at start up light flashing
Is this van possessed please help before I drink to much

[Mocki]

Clearly a broken wire of poor connection in the system , could be the control module , could be the dash connection (14pin) above your right knee ?

[Robsey]

On a van with original wiring, it is probably -

1 - dry crusty wiring, especially in the engine bay.
Wires become dry, bleached-pink looking or blackened.
The only 100% cure is to make up fresh wiring.
Dependent upon your diy skills and knowledge levels of elec-trickery, it isn't overly difficult to do.

2 - Crusty blue instrument circuit board foil.
If the clocks have been handled a few times, the brittle foils can develop intermittent or permanent fractures.

On the odd occasion I have known the 14-pin strip connector to 'lose connection' with some tracks of the foil.
Often just ensuring that the edge connector is pushed 'fully home' is enough to provide a long lasting solution.

If you still have a blue foil and you think it may be tatered, AngeloEVS does a very cost effective rigid circuit board.
Price is cheap - quality is top notch.

Or there are many off-the shelf replacement units for a lot more money by the likes of Slaughter House Customs etc.
Saying that though - these off the shelf units probably cost no more than a full cluster with unknown history on ebay etc.

3 - dirty crusty old lucar connectors.
When I re-wired my van, I changes well over 50 dirty, corroded or loose fitting Lucar (female spade) connectors.

I am sure you have probably read countless posts about the instruments by AngeloEVS, which cover these issues in great detail.

Assuming you have dealt with the 42 / 43 relay-like shortage unit checks or replacement,
(As hinted by Aiden).

And all the earth crowns and, the shortage unit connectors have been cleaned within an inch of their lives.
-----------------
All this damp weather does not help either.
Moisture plus electrics equals bother.

In my early days, I used to clean up all connectors and apply a small smear of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to them, before plugging all Lucar connectors back together.

The best way I know, to keep moisture out, and slow down oxidation of the connectors.

Apologies if you have done most of this, but it is good to take a step back and go through the check-list in case there is anything you missed.

[AngeloEvs]

If there is an intermittent issue with the coolant warning LED and coolant level is not the cause then I would remove module 43 ( or marked 42). Doing this will isolate the gauge from the coolant level sender circuit and help to diagnose the cause. With the module removed, the LED will flash for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on then stop. The module 43 triggers the LED if coolant level is low or if there is a fault in the connections or wiring to the level sensor, by removing module 43 you eliminate those possible causes. With it removed, if the LED still flashes intermittently during a test drive and the gauge needle isn’t registering any movement then it may be that the 10v regulator output is intermittent. If there is an intermittent 10v connection to the gauge then the LED will flash and it will continue to flash as if the ignition was constantly being switch on an off. You could remove the dash and inspect the regulator and the socket that it fits into. The legs of the regulator can oxidise, or become a loose fit in the socket. This would also be a possible cause for a non functioning gauge. Also check the gauge securing nuts are fully tightened. Take the module 43 out ( located in the fuse box on post 1986 vans and close to it on earlier WC vans) and test drive.

[southernscouse]

Thanks for the replies did the quick one first removed relay 43 light carries on flashing until engine starts
The dash has a slaughterhouse kit ( Angelo might remember me) my dash has been a pain for some time first with BOD now temp levels always ok
Earth crowns clean
What is killing me is I change something like last week the level sensor and all is ok for a week then either the light flashes and the temp gauge works or no light no gauge
Will take it for a run tomorrow with no relay and see what happens

[AngeloEvs]

Sounds very much like an issue with the 10v supply to the gauge but take it for a run with the module removed and if it continues to flash intermittently then take the dash out and inspect the wiring and connections fro the regulator to the gauges.

[southernscouse]

This morning with relay removed when you turn on ignition light flashes constantly until engine is started it then stops and gauge starts to move
If I carry on with no relay what can happen this engine has only done 500miles since Campershack rebuild can not afford it to go bang

[Mocki]

Just means no low coolant warning ….. clean the connections on the 42 module

[AngeloEvs]

Removing the module has no effect on the function of the temperature gauge needle, it will still indicate coolant temperature. The module only senses low coolant and triggers the LED if necessary and that’s it. However, from your posts, your gauge is intermittent and not functioning for periods of time so what ever is wrong needs to be rectified if you want assurance that all is ok with a rebuilt engine and the cooling system. Did you fit the SHC kit before or after the engine was overhauled and did the temperature gauge problem start after fitting the SHC kit?