Fridge removal and recommendations for a replacement

[AlBundy]

Sorry if this is the wrong board, please move as appropriate.

I have an Electrolux 3 way fridge in my 1986 LHD Bilbo conversion that may or may not work (see pictures), the main power switch is broken so can't test properly. We aren't that keen on running a gas powered fridge anyway, and the interior of the fridge isn't in great condition so it's going to be removed and replaced with something new and more efficient. The old one might be good for parts, will post pictures when I get it out.

The dimensions for the existing fridge are as follows:

Width = 485mm
Height = 615mm
Depth = 485mm

I have 2 questions.

1. Does anyone have any recommendations for what type of fridge I should choose as a replacement?
2. Does anyone have any experience with retailers that would be a good place to get one from?
3. What else should I be thinking about before embarking on this?

Thanks in advance.

[R0B]

We have a compressor fridge in our van. One of the best things I have bought. It runs on the 12v leisure battery and EHU if on a site. It uses a relatively small amount of battery power. I highly recommend one. They are not cheap, but a cracking bit of kit.

This is ours but you need to shop around for the best price.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/dometic- ... ilver.html

[AlBundy]

Thank you, I think that's the plan for me then. 

It looks like the biggest battery I can get is a 90amp Lead Acid one.

How long do you find that your fridge will last (assuming normal UK conditions), and do you need to supplement the battery with solar etc?

Al

[cobblers]

In summer, expect a compressor fridge to run for a couple of days on a 90AH leisure battery. Double that in winter. The interior temperature in the van makes a huge difference, so if you can keep the van well ventilated in summer, your fridge won't have to work as hard.

A few years ago you were limited to just Waeco/Dometic 12v compressor fridges, but nowadays there are a lot more brands on the market and they pretty much all use the same compressor anyway! Alpicool fridges from transporter HQ seem decent and are about £150 cheaper than the equivalent dometic CRX50.

The existing 12V supply to the fridge will be fed from the main battery and is only live when the engine is running, so you'll probably need to run a fresh power wire direct to your leisure battery (with a fuse). The fridge instructions will tell you how thick this needs to be.

One alternative is a Lithium battery - more expensive up front but will give you roughly 250-300% the capacity in the same physical space, but they do come with their own drawbacks - you'll need to fit a different charging system.

With a solar panel of 150w or more, you can pretty much run the fridge indefinitely if you don't park in the shade. The fridge in my big camper van hasn't been switched off on over two years and the battery is always kept completely full. That has a 200W panel.

[AngeloEvs]

We replaced our absorption fridge with a Waeco Compressor fridge 20 years ago and still perfect regards function. We went to Greece and Crete - the absorption fridge could not cope with the high ambient temperature but the compressor fridge still managed to freeze.

[lefty67]

I'm looking at one of the crx50 fridges but I'm a bit confused. Do I also need to purchase an mps 35 adapter.


https://www.cooltechleisure.co.uk/domet ... ns-adaptor

[Mocki]

I have a Dometic 85l compressor fridge in my camper, whic is the same physical size as the three way in your pictures , and it needs no adaptor , run directly from my bank of 225a traction batteries charged by my 260w of solar panels , there is no mains in my camper

Unless you want to run it from mains hook up you dont need that transformer

[AlBundy]

Link to pictures here, just in case, just in case anyone was following this thread. Location is Berkshire.

[keynsham1]

In summer, expect a compressor fridge to run for a couple of days on a 90AH leisure battery. Double that in winter. 

Is that right? I thought these compressor fridges hardly used any leisure battery power and would run for weeks? A couple of days doesn't even do a weekend break without EHU??

[Rascal]

With a solar panel you can easily run for a few days and it will also make ice. Compressor fridges are worlds apart from what you are removing. Nothing comes for free and to expect a 12v fridge to last for weeks on a 90ah battery is a bit naive. But really lithium and solar is the only real way ro go.. But its all about money.. Iv been putting off buying a lithium for a while. But I also never use EHU. And only have a 100w panel.. If you run the fridge at max on the drive down (assuming you have split charge) and shat you put in it is already chilled.. You can just. Switch it to it's lower settings.. And will still have cold beer 2 days later... Its all about expectations really...

[cobblers]

In summer, expect a compressor fridge to run for a couple of days on a 90AH leisure battery. Double that in winter. 

Is that right? I thought these compressor fridges hardly used any leisure battery power and would run for weeks? A couple of days doesn't even do a weekend break without EHU??

Compressors fridges are way more efficient that absorption fridges, but only while running on electricity.
An absorption fridge takes 10A, 24/7. A compressor fridge will draw 4A for about 5 minutes every half an hour, depending on the ambient temperature and what you've got it set at. They use 10% of the power, but 10% of " a lot" is still something!

You might eek an extra day or so out of those figures I quoted, but you'd be discharging the battery quite deeply which isn't good for it.

As mentioned previous, with a proper solar panel on the roof (150W+) and a decent charge controller, you can run a fridge indefinitely, year round without hookup. You might get a week or so out of a gas bottle with an old fridge and then you've go to drive out and get another bottle!

[Mocki]

Yes dont be one of those annoying people ( nearly always seem to be t4 or t5 owners ) who have to constantly run their engines to top up the inadequate batteries disturbing the rest of us who did the job properly

[LeeME3]

I have a Waeco CR50 (predecessor to the CRX50) and, after a few years of faffing with various power sources, have now settled on 2x100Ah Renogy lithium, a Victron 175W solar panel, Victron MPPT solar controller, Renogy B2B charger and re-wired the lot with good quality cable, fuses etc. Of course it depends on the weather but that seems pretty much self-sustaining (at least if the sun is less shiny the fridge isn't working as hard). The B2B is a useful addition as when I do run the engine (eg a short run to the shops) it very quickly puts a fair bit back into the batteries. Don't underestimate the importance of the wiring - the CR(X)50 in particular is fussy - keep the wire runs as short as possible and do follow the guide in the installation instructions for the correct thickness of cable - I even went up one rating to be sure. A lot of folk have issues with them switching off due to low voltage when, in fact, it is voltage drop due to poor wiring. The other advantage of lithium over lead acid batteries is they hold voltage a lot longer into their discharge cycle (as well as being able to discharge a lot deeper) so the fridge 'sees' pretty much 13v all the time and is very happy.