Pierburg 2E3 rebuild - got a couple of issues

[Captain Tuba]

Hi folks
Doing my first Pierburg 2E3 carb rebuild after a good read through all the great supporting material.



Things are looking nice and clean, but before I put it back together I have two issues to resolve:

1. I think the throttle body heater may be broken.
Used a multimeter to check the resistance, and there was very low resistance between the wire and the face that goes onto the carb body.
There was high resistance from the heating face to the back face where the fixing screw is.
Which is the earth point for the heater? The face that is on the carb, or the back where the fixing screw is?

2. The second stage throttle locking lever is very stiff



I can move it by hand from stop to stop, but there is too much friction for the spring to return it.
I have tried penetrating oil, and tried applying gentle heat and oil, but it is still too stiff for the spring to work.
It seems to be fixed by rivets, so removal looks like drilling the rivets out.
What can I do to free up the lever?

TIA
C.T.

[Captain Tuba]

Just added another item to the To-Do list:

The float has put on a little weight over the years.
The Pierburg guidance says 5.85g +/- 0.1g
My float weighs in at about 7.85g
That is about a 33% weight gain.

The Pierburg guidance says that the incorrect float level can cause issues with:

• Warm starting
  Power - too little, and misfiring at full load
  Excessive fuel consumption.

I pressume that the plastic has just absorbed fuel over time.
When I get it back on the carb, I'll check the float height to see if it is within tolerance.
I noticed that the replacement float valve is slightly longer than the original.
Perhaps the longer valve and lower float will cancel each other out.

Anyone else found this to be an issue?

Cheers
C.T.

[Captain Tuba]

I found this thread on the E23 choke and it includes comments from Mocki on How to removed the second stage throttle locking lever
https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.p ... 0&start=75

it was a bit of a bugger to change,, i had to take the flap off the splindle and remove the spindle and drill the "rivet" centre out , i then tapped it m3 and put a cabinet m3 screw in to secure it onto the shaft when replacing onto the other carb

yes the "rivit" goes right through, i drilled the inside end off, and then drilled and tapped it M3 after and used a small cabinet screw , but maybe a flat headed bolt would work??

This is proving challenging as the screws that hold the flap on the spindle have been peened over so they will not come loose.



What approach can I use to remove the flap screws?

Should I avoid doing it and try and find an alternative method to removing the second stage throttle locking lever?

Thanks C.T.

[Bradders95]

Hi there, sorry to bring up an old post. I have the same issue you were having and wondered wether you ended up using the longer needle valve and heavier than spec float? If you did, did you run in to any issues?

My carb is over fueling and I suspect the needle in there is too long but have no way of knowing if it is the correct length.

Many thanks