Brake & Clutch Pedal refurb

[slowcoach]

I’ve changed the pedal box and servo etc with the dash in place , wasn’t particularly difficult, a little fiddly but didn’t take more than 2 hrs

that sounds good- so was it out the top (with the 2 chassis/dash braces removed)? did the booster,brake master cylinder, and pedal bracket come out as one?

[Oldiebut goodie]

There is a D-clip ( I think rather than split pin) on the right hand shaft end to remove and you jiggle the shaft out. Then the pedal will come out of the way. There should be a return spring hooked on to the pedal. ( It was missing on mine!) It was many years ago now so I have forgotten exactly, especially as I said to myself that I was never going to do it again! It did involve laying on my back, working blind at times even with a mirror and light and skinned knuckles. I haven't got the smallest of hands so that didn't help.

[slowcoach]

There is a D-clip ( I think rather than split pin) on the right hand shaft end to remove and you jiggle the shaft out. Then the pedal will come out of the way. There should be a return spring hooked on to the pedal. ( It was missing on mine!) It was many years ago now so I have forgotten exactly, especially as I said to myself that I was never going to do it again! It did involve laying on my back, working blind at times even with a mirror and light and skinned knuckles. I haven't got the smallest of hands so that didn't help.

thanks obg- sounds like the best solution.  can you confirm if yours is right hand drive? it makes a difference to whethere or not the pedal shaft has any space to be knocked out sideways apparently

[Oldiebut goodie]

RHD

[Smiffo]

Thread bump.

My clutch pedal has a lot of play in it too. Looked under the dash today, but goddamn that's a tight space.

Did you do yours SlowCoach?
 

[slowcoach]

Hah funny this should pop up... I just had a crack at it a few days ago.

The pedal has up and down play, but I'm not so concerned with that. It was the grinding metal on metal feel from the clutch master clevis pin. It felt like any moment it would wear through and that'd be a show stopper on the road. The pedal hinge itself is fine, I think. Access to all of that is rediculously tight though. I can't see how I'd ever remove it without the dash out and steering column out, which I don't want to do again in a hurry. Obg I can't imagine how you did it without Mr tickle arms.

I ended up removing the seat and with some contorting and spray grease (with some bodged straws to direct) just shot the clevis pin as much as I could. I couldn't get a finger to it for normal grease. It's really hard to even spot. Inspection mirror, torch etc.

Anyway it feels much better now, no friction on grinding coming through my foot. I can't see what wear there is in situ.

Maybe it'll fail eventually. Maybe it'll last another 20 years, who knows. But a greased joint is a far happier joint.

Pedal play up down comes from the pushrod into the clutch master. I'm living with that

[Smiffo]

I was looking around on Ebay yesterday looking for a spare setup.

Same as you, I don't want the dash out. And when it is, I have to repair the one I have before reinstalling.
My thinking was get a replacement, make sure it's good, maybe do the E30 Servo/booster upgrade, and perhaps even clutch and brake master cylinders, then attack the dash and have it all done in one.

Seemed excessive though.

The problem is, if you don't want to do something, but think about it long enough, you will give yourself a reason not to do it!

I think I am at that point but concerned one day it just fails on me

[slowcoach]

Hi smiffo-

did you get anywhere this this?

We've a big european trip this summer so im going to sort it out.  interesting thread here-

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... p?t=401822



about halfway down the first post shows the pedal box assembly undone and lifted up to the dash hole, enough to get access to the pedal shaft, so could remove the pedal from the assembly, and leave the rest of the pedal box behind.  if that doesnt work, its time to stop faffing and get the dash off again

[Smiffo]

I bought a second hand example off of the bay of fleas, refurbed that, fitted a new master clutch and brake cylinder, and a BMWM30 brake servo to it!

Then it sat in my garage waiting for a good time to get the dash out.
Now would be ideal really as a time of year, but I have too much else going on in life 

I'm also waiting on BW to get a set of injectors in before I swap the Pierburg for DigiJet system.

Maybe once the injectors come in, I swing it into a garage to do the lot - not sure - I've bitten off more than I can chew in terms of time at the moment.

[slowcoach]

up and out..

 

[slowcoach]

so finally got round to this, spurred on by upcoming trips.

i took the clutch master off first, and drained the brake lines to it.  then took out the brake master cylinder.   removed the chassis/dash braces.  then i unbolted the pedal bracket from the van. at that point the whole pedal asembly is loose, and can be lifted up through the dash hole.  i couldnt get it through though, so took the brake booster off the braket for much more room. then  it was very very close, but i still couldnt get the pedals up and through the hole  :/  it fouled just be about 10 mm on the front edge of the dash.  it may be possible to get it through and out, but my attempts and angles didnt work out.

but- you do get easy access to the pedal shaft then, and can easily take off the eclip/circlip from the left side, and tap through the shaft. mine moved mostly with firm finger presssure, but tapped the last bit through until the clutch pedal dropped off the shaft, and can then be fished out the BOTTOM.  theres space to clean up the whole pedal shaft, spring etc and grease the brake clevis too.

photos of the assembly below, and showing the pedal shaft half out, and the clutch pedal pivot being freed.

im happy didnt have to take the dash off, and can now go and get the pedal hole welded up.  i have wear on the clutch fork too, which has ovalled a bit.  ill get that welded and drilled too.  theyre not catastrophically worn, but far gone enough to have a very wobbly pedal which im not comfortable with. about 2 hrs work, so not a big job as it turns out.  it aint back together yet though

theres a video shoing the 'clevis slop' i have too.

[slowcoach]

and just to show its possible to get the pedal assembly out from the top (once the clutch pedal is removed from the shaft)..






with just the brake pedal attached, it comes out very easily.  this is good because i can clean all that up and adjust the new clevis pin length by temporarilty attaching the clutch master back onto the bracket. thats the current thinking at least

[Smiffo]

Well done!
You managed with the dash in place!

[slowcoach]

Yep all back together now after some nice welding from the local tame machine shop. He widened the bearing face with an insert so it's in par with the brake clevis thickness now, should be good till the end of the van.

In summary, it can all come out the top through the dash hole, but only once you've pulled up the pedal bracket to gain access to the pedal shaft which is behind the brake booster, where then you can easily slide the shaft out a bit, pull out the clutch pedal, then the rest will follow. Reverse fit to get it together again


If I was fitting that bigger BMW servo I'd take the dash off. But for the stock one, I don't think it'd be any benefit really.

[Smiffo]

Well done, my guy.