Missing an alternator bracket stud

[nicktennear]

Went to change my squealing fanbelt and thought, well, that's a bit too much movement so took the alternator off to discover it's on one stud. No idea how long it's only been on one stud but the alternator seems like it was done up tight enough to accommodate but it felt like it would rest on the coolant pipe underneath. I don't have the skill to drill it out, or a welder to get a bit more stud on. Anyone know a work around?

[mioba]

Best best is to get it to a garage and ask them to weld something on it. Drop them fiver for thier efforts.

Get some new bolts to take with you

[nicktennear]

Read a few previous threads with similar tales. I've removed the one that is in there and replaced it with a decent but temporary bolt and fitted it all back together hoping the tensioner will do some of the work, squeaky belt makes more sense now. It's clearly been gone for a while and I've done over a thousand miles since buying it last year so should get me the few miles to the man with the mig. Good thing is I've just dumped the coolant to fix a few wet bits so taking the pipe out that sits across it shouldn't be that big a deal.

Reassuring

[mioba]

Best bet is get the correct bolts, BW will have them I a sure.
If the alty isnt true hope you didnt damage the bearings.

Keep us posted and good luck!9

[cobblers]

Get it repaired properly, all that stress on the one remaining stud is likely to crack the casting and cause much bigger problems.

[nicktennear]

Took it to two local garages today who know old vehicles today and they turned me down, didn't fancy welding something on, said it was an engine out job. If this engine's coming out it's because a different one is going in.

There's a small chance I can get a 4mm chisel onto the sticky out bit and give it a nudge, or it's big boy pants on and the drill. Previous thread gives me no more than 20mm before I invent a new way of bleeding the coolant. I think I can put some sort of drill guide/jig together to get it in straight.

I'm not using the van at the moment while I wait on delivery of some exhaust bits so I've time to work it out, pardon the pun.

[Forden341]

Looking at the wear on the remaining stud I’d say the bracket has been moving about somewhat.
I have had some success in the past by plenty of plus gas and drilling a hole and tapping an old torx bit in the hole to remove what’s left of the stud. I would avoid eazyouts though as they are very brittle and will cause no end of trouble once snapped off.

[tobydog]

What size is the broken stud?

[silverbullet]

Its an engine drop job. Do NOT pick up hammer and chisel, tears will result.
Use the bracket as a drill jig to spot/centre the broken stud with the biggest drill that fits into the hole, then carefully drill out with a *sharp* 6.5 and hopefully you will be able to pick up the start of the thread and pull it out as along coil.

[silverbullet]

What size is the broken stud?

M8x1.25

[Cecil]

Any room to get an angle drill or drill attachment in there?

If so I would be making a temporary bracket to fix there to guide the drill bit straight as you suggest.

[Oldiebut goodie]

I would fashion a bracket to attach to the 2 studs that you have available there as a temporary fix until you can drop the engine for easier access.
It would take a bit of jiggling and bending to shape it but it would not be impossible.

[tobydog]

What size is the broken stud?

M8x1.25

Drill and tap the stud M5(4.2 dia) or M6(5 dia) if you can and use a decent strength cap head screw/bolt as a temporary fix?

Don't break a drill or tap in there....
 

[mioba]

tried a mobile welder

[Gavrilo]

I always use left handed drill bits when drilling out broken studs, some times the bit grips the broken stud and spins it out.