DJ2.1 Rebuild

[Stesaw]

Personally Stu I'd invest in some of the collapsible pushrod tubes just incase you need to swap out a lifter without destroying the tube in the process or get a leak by reusing it.

[maxstu]

It was running spring loaded tubes before the blow up. They leaked too!
I'm prepared to give them a shot. If l do get an oil leak, then it will feel right at home with a minor gas and (yes still!) coolant leak.

[Stesaw]

Which ones did you have? I'm using the scat ones with the three o ring seals on the inside, once seated right I don't think i've had a leak from them since the install (maybe just lucked out). The 1.9 has them as well and I found them to be really handy for maintenance.

[maxstu]

Will look tomorrow. Er, later today!
Off to the arms of Morpheus for now.

[silverbullet]

FWIW... rods: Bin them and fit new. Its cheaper, quicker and guarantees perfectly round bearings and true piston motion.
Crank gears: forget the 80°C wet preheat, it rarely works. Gently heat with a flame, spit on your finger and dab the gear, if it instantly boils and crackles it is hot enough. Swiftly pick up with welding gauntlets and the gears will fall on. Hold in place until they grab the crank.
Resorting to drifts and lump hammers risks bending the crank and/or the gears picking up on the crank (scored bores and falling) and then the timing gear running eccentrically.

[maxstu]

Which ones did you have? I'm using the scat ones with the three o ring seals on the inside, once seated right I don't think i've had a leak from them since the install (maybe just lucked out). The 1.9 has them as well and I found them to be really handy for maintenance.

No name on them. But look cheap and crappy.
Will try the originals l have had squirrelled away from some years.

[maxstu]

FWIW... rods: Bin them and fit new. Its cheaper, quicker and guarantees perfectly round bearings and true piston motion.
Crank gears: forget the 80°C wet preheat, it rarely works. Gently heat with a flame, spit on your finger and dab the gear, if it instantly boils and crackles it is hot enough. Swiftly pick up with welding gauntlets and the gears will fall on. Hold in place until they grab the crank.
Resorting to drifts and lump hammers risks bending the crank and/or the gears picking up on the crank (scored bores and falling) and then the timing gear running eccentrically.

There is no reason to doubt any of the above. It all makes complete common sense for a professional engine builder to use new rods. And many thank for your comments.

But l'm passed that stage now. And l'm not that financially solvent to bin the tested (for twist/bent and big end wear) conrods with newly honed bushes. Buying new now would set me back another 250 quid once l've paid for honing as well. No going back!

Today l took a dremel to the camshaft bearing removing the unwarranted tang. Take it nice and slow. Finished with oil soaked 1500 paper rub down. Then washed in hot soapy water. Dried, coated with oil and fitted to case half.

Tang extrusion cut back flush to bearing shell surface. Top right.



I did a test fit of the crankshaft and cam. Both ran really smooth. Reverse motion of the crank didn't lift the camshaft. Backlash measured with a feeler gauge between crankshaft drive gear and the cam teeth is under 0.05mm maximum wear.

Setting crank and cam timing marks.



I put in place the other half of the engine case and gave it another spin clockwise and then anti-clockwise. Nothing lifting and very smooth. So l assume all is good.



Time to fit the conrods.
I matched the rods with piston/pin combination for as equal as possible identical weight, getting within 2 grams of each other. See earlier post.

Setting the crankshaft on a worktop and clamping it down using two builders' grippers. Oil journals and big end bearings. Fit conrods with numbers on connecting cap and rod on same side, and cast lug on each rod facing top when set in the formation seen below.

Cylinder number in circle on toilet roll tube. A precautionary measure for the forgetful



Torque up to value of 45nm. In this case l'm using early DG conrods with rigid bolts and not stretch bolts. Coat cap threads with oil before applying nuts. Note the nuts have a fixed collar. They should face downwards. Also note the matching numbers on bearing cap and conrod.



Put the crank with it's conrods back inside half engine case. Then remove to add the the new thrust washer behind crank (okay l forgot ) bearing no 1. And the second thrust washer as shown. I will remove the latter washer before adding case half. Then slide it over crank end later.



The thrust washers fit into case indentations shown here.



And this leads to the distributor...

Good fellow forum users. Which engine case side do you use to build up the internals? I'm using the dissy side half. And what is the technique for fitting dissy drive to mate against the crank gears. Lastly what sealant to close the engine cases Curil 2 green stuff? I have an unopened tube. But it at least three years' old. Any good still.

Regards
Stuart

[Aidan]

disi drive goes into assembled engine with the thrust washers placed first and timing position set with the pulley fitted, much later on in the build I think

[maxstu]

Okay and thanks.

I did read an article where fitting the drive is best now, and secure it by clamping the distributor body to case?

What case sealant, in your opinion, should l use?

Another thought off the top of my head. Steady Stu!! Can crank end play be sorted with open cases? Would be interesting if so. Just to view how all meshes together at this stage.

Regards
Stuart

[Stesaw]

I've seen people fit it when assembling the case but I think its easier after assembling.

Assemble your case and all that first Stu, TDC number 1 after intake. Grease the two washers so they stick together and to make sure when you drop them down there they stick. Put the washers on a long screwdriver or something similar so when you drop them they don't fall into narnia and you can use the screwdriver to center them in the case. If I recall right when fitting the drive make sure the small half moon faces the waterpump and as it drops it will mesh and move clockwise a bit.
You have a bentley manual dont ya stu? shows how to fit it right in there and how it should align, Haynes does as well if I recall.. but I've slept since then

I think for end play you'd need to bolt the case together and put the flywheel + shims to check that.

Case sealant, well I used the stuff that came with the victor reinz set. Use it sparingly.. when I first did it it was like icing a cake

[maxstu]

I've seen people fit it when assembling the case but I think its easier after assembling.

Assemble your case and all that first Stu, TDC number 1 after intake. Grease the two washers so they stick together and to make sure when you drop them down there they stick. Put the washers on a long screwdriver or something similar so when you drop them they don't fall into narnia and you can use the screwdriver to center them in the case. If I recall right when fitting the drive make sure the small half moon faces the waterpump and as it drops it will mesh and move clockwise a bit.
You have a bentley manual dont ya stu? shows how to fit it right in there and how it should align, Haynes does as well if I recall.. but I've slept since then

I think for end play you'd need to bolt the case together and put the flywheel + shims to check that.

Case sealant, well I used the stuff that came with the victor reinz set. Use it sparingly.. when I first did it it was like icing a cake

Hi Steve. And thanks for the info, matey.

I do have an online version of Bentley. However, the images are not that clear. I use a combination of Bentley, the internet (here), Haynes manual and..................... dance & mime!


I have a few aged tubes of sealant. So a bit concerned whether they still are fit for purpose. And as for the yellow stuff on the head nuts. That seems to separate after a few years. I'm not keen on that stuff at all!

This is what l've seen on the web.
Curil T green stuff (Itchylinks) for case halves. I have that. Reinzosil for heads. New tube available. Yellow stuff on head bolts. Yuk! Old and oily. But will mix up to yellow again.



For the heads. Perhaps, can be used on case halves?



I'm going to have a look at setting crank end play with cases open . Will report back.

Regards
Stuart.

[Smiffo]

How are you getting on with this Stuart?

I've only dipped in lightly to the forum lately - too much going on.
Came in tonight to catch up, and this thread sprang to mind....

[maxstu]

How are you getting on with this Stuart?

I've only dipped in lightly to the forum lately - too much going on.
Came in tonight to catch up, and this thread sprang to mind....

Hi Steve,

I know the feeling. Too many more important things keep me from concentrating on this. Every time we get one issue sorted, then three more come our way. Plus, at my age, it is way too cold in that poorly insulated garage to mess about after dark.....
Engine in same states since December. Probably rusted up inside by now.
Back on it soon.

[Smiffo]

I feel your pain. 
I have a long list of bits to start different works I wanted to do - alas, the bits just sit there getting cold in the garage!! 

[Stesaw]

That's just a good excuse to go buy a heater for the garage