SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
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- Davegrohl99
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SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Has anyone used this kit?
Very interested to see how it goes would be interested to see how the tachometer works out!
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Very interested to see how it goes would be interested to see how the tachometer works out!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1981 Westfalia 2.0 CU engine.
1971 Early Bay Microbus.
1971 Early Bay Microbus.
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Are they for sale yet , I thought it was just pre orders , looks the part and there’s not much to a Rev counter so I expect it will do what it says
- Davegrohl99
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Yes it is. It includes a digital gps speedometer which I think is great also.
Having a tach on air cooled would be so helpful.
For £399 I think it’s very good value!
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Having a tach on air cooled would be so helpful.
For £399 I think it’s very good value!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1981 Westfalia 2.0 CU engine.
1971 Early Bay Microbus.
1971 Early Bay Microbus.
- Robsey
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
I do fancy the idea of being able to get the rev counter separate too.
£145 for the tacho only, and you can fit your original fuel and temperature gauges.
They say that it won't work with the blue ribbon foil, but electrics are not that difficult, so it would be possible to splice it into your body loom.
It just needs three wires:-
Ignition live,
Ground,
And rpm signal (green tacho wire from the coil).
Far from rocket science.
£145 for the tacho only, and you can fit your original fuel and temperature gauges.
They say that it won't work with the blue ribbon foil, but electrics are not that difficult, so it would be possible to splice it into your body loom.
It just needs three wires:-
Ignition live,
Ground,
And rpm signal (green tacho wire from the coil).
Far from rocket science.
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF and 4 speed DT box.
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
1987 Electrics and a DJ engine.
Maybe one day I might get it finished
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Davegrohl99 wrote: ↑27 Feb 2023, 08:33 Yes it is. It includes a digital gps speedometer which I think is great also.
Having a tach on air cooled would be so helpful.
For £399 I think it’s very good value!
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I agree it’s good value for all new
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
when you consider people trying to sell 20+ year old rev counters and dash clusters with buggered film for £300+ its deffo good value.
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
1979 LT 2.0CH Westy project
Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Haha Thats a good perspective.
Well people selling 40year old brittle plastic for 400 is mad.
People replacing it for 400 is also mad for a pc and some wires which is worth no more than 20 quid in parts.
Well people selling 40year old brittle plastic for 400 is mad.
People replacing it for 400 is also mad for a pc and some wires which is worth no more than 20 quid in parts.
Westfalia Hightop Top Joker 1.6TD - aka Daisy, my labour of love
- AngeloEvs
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
I have the tacho on its own, just haven’t got round to installing it on one of my spare clusters. Think the pointer movement is servo motor driven from a quick inspection. I quite like having a clock on the dash so looking at digital and analogue 52mm diameter options to fit under the warning light module.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
- AngeloEvs
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Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
I completed the conversion but a couple of points worth mentioning if anyone is contemplating doing the same.
1. The case itself will need some sections removing (covered in the instructions) in order to accommodate the Tacho/Gauge assembly (which is larger than the aperture that the assembly fits into.
2. The instructions do cover all aspects of the conversion but do not cover the wiring to the gauges in terms of which gauge terminal is positive 10v from the regulator and which terminal is the output that connects to the gauge sender. (Most doing this should be able to work it out if they use the original ribbon circuit and trace which gauge terminal connects to the regulator.
3. I found that both the Gauges sat a bit low in the positions that they were supposed to fit into. I elongated the holes so that both gauges could be slid up a few mm - probably being over fussy but it looked better with the gauges slightly higher. The gauges will need a small amount cut away (which is easily done with some tin snips).
4. A PCB conversion is strongly advised either the SHC one or a third party one (I make my own).
When the ignition is first switched on - the Tacho needle should do a full deflectionand then return to the resting point - if it doesn't - remove the dash and check the wiring is correct.
As you can see, I have relocated the Handbrake/Low Resevoir fluid warning LED (originally this was a bulb) to the centre warning light module, the Headlight switch is relocated to the right (the dimmer is removed as it has no effect when using LED Panel Lights). I fitted a 52mm analogue Clock on the Left where the Head Light Switch and original Handbrake warning light were fitted - I dont like the Chrome Bezel so that will have to be removed and sprayed Satin Black.
Broken Corners are repaired and converted to M4 threaded studs - there is usually enough of the original hole (even after the corner has broken away) to extend the depth and Tap it. It's job done and functions as it should but wether it's worth the cost is another question.
1. The case itself will need some sections removing (covered in the instructions) in order to accommodate the Tacho/Gauge assembly (which is larger than the aperture that the assembly fits into.
2. The instructions do cover all aspects of the conversion but do not cover the wiring to the gauges in terms of which gauge terminal is positive 10v from the regulator and which terminal is the output that connects to the gauge sender. (Most doing this should be able to work it out if they use the original ribbon circuit and trace which gauge terminal connects to the regulator.
3. I found that both the Gauges sat a bit low in the positions that they were supposed to fit into. I elongated the holes so that both gauges could be slid up a few mm - probably being over fussy but it looked better with the gauges slightly higher. The gauges will need a small amount cut away (which is easily done with some tin snips).
4. A PCB conversion is strongly advised either the SHC one or a third party one (I make my own).
When the ignition is first switched on - the Tacho needle should do a full deflectionand then return to the resting point - if it doesn't - remove the dash and check the wiring is correct.
As you can see, I have relocated the Handbrake/Low Resevoir fluid warning LED (originally this was a bulb) to the centre warning light module, the Headlight switch is relocated to the right (the dimmer is removed as it has no effect when using LED Panel Lights). I fitted a 52mm analogue Clock on the Left where the Head Light Switch and original Handbrake warning light were fitted - I dont like the Chrome Bezel so that will have to be removed and sprayed Satin Black.
Broken Corners are repaired and converted to M4 threaded studs - there is usually enough of the original hole (even after the corner has broken away) to extend the depth and Tap it. It's job done and functions as it should but wether it's worth the cost is another question.
1987 DG Karisma LPG with remodelled interior
Re: SHC dash PCB upgrade with Tach for Aricooled!
Good write up on whats needed.
It looks neat.
I love SHC work on providing the mods, I just dont like their big branding everywhere.
It looks neat.
I love SHC work on providing the mods, I just dont like their big branding everywhere.
Westfalia Hightop Top Joker 1.6TD - aka Daisy, my labour of love