DJ2.1 Rebuild

[Stesaw]

may I ask what the problem would be with swapping the bolts? I've seen people swap stretch bolts for non stretch, granted they are brand new bolts.

[maxstu]

may I ask what the problem would be with swapping the bolts? I've seen people swap stretch bolts for non stretch, granted they are brand new bolts.

Me too

But why not simply use the early DG rods, instead?

[ajsimmo]

New rods come with new stretch bolts, so it'd be crazy to swap them

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[maxstu]

Set of early and set of late conrods may well be going up for sale then.
The firm said they can check both sets of conrods.

[maxstu]

I may buy a new set of DJ pistons, once my head gets around the shocking price! Will check wear on the originals first.
To replace the following for new is about 1300 quid. So what's a set of used DJ pistons, conrods, gudgeon pins and sleeves worth?

[Stesaw]

If your pistons aren't damaged or worn save the money mate, I bought two used pistons from Andrew and a barrel/sleeve as I had damage on mine.
Just get the barrels honed if they need it and put new rings on the pistons after giving them a good clean. Maybe you'd get a couple of hundred quid if you were to sell the old bits.

[Smiffo]

If your pistons aren't damaged or worn save the money mate, I bought two used pistons from Andrew and a barrel/sleeve as I had damage on mine.
Just get the barrels honed if they need it and put new rings on the pistons after giving them a good clean. Maybe you'd get a couple of hundred quid if you were to sell the old bits.

Agree - if you check them and they are OK to sell, then they are OK to reuse, surely?

I often do the same though. My default is "if in doubt, buy new" but for a rebuild, that mantra might get expensive! 

[Stesaw]

I thought about buying a new set of pistons and barrels but thought about going up to the 2.2 set as they were just a fit and forget with no mods needed. But after a chat with andrew and looking at cost to benefit decided it not best.

[maxstu]

Many thanks to you both.
The engine goes in tomorrow and will take a fortnight before coming back to me.
Stayed tuned for the measuring, ordering of parts and reassembly.

Regards
Stuart

[Stesaw]

As for the dissy drive and cam gear on the crank Stu, they are not difficult things to remove, I had to replace my cam gear as some of the teeth had damage. it's getting a puller that is suitable to fit around it and heat it up to get it off, the dissy gear being a soft metal is easy to heat up and take off (and damage) but the cam one put up a bit more of a fight. Getting them fitted back on wasn't difficult, just got to make sure you fit the cam gear back on with the chamfered bit the right end. I used little camping gas stove and just stuck the gear on it for a minute or two and then popped it on with my welding gloves on tapped it down into place with a soft drift. Just make sure you fit your bearing first

[ajsimmo]

It's not recommended to heat the crank gear with a flame. It can get too hot and distort, giving a tight/loose/tight feel when refitted. I use a hot air gun, and it should feel no hotter than a hot kettle (spec is 80°). It should usually pull off the crank cold without problems, but again the hot air gun should help. It's a moot point as I believe you've outsourced this now.
Ps Just to be clear, I am not saying you can't change the bolts in used rods, that's perfectly acceptable. I just didn't follow why anyone would remove new stretch bolts from new rods to replace with non-stretch.

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[maxstu]

It's not recommended to heat the crank gear with a flame. It can get too hot and distort, giving a tight/loose/tight feel when refitted. I use a hot air gun, and it should feel no hotter than a hot kettle (spec is 80°). It should usually pull off the crank cold without problems, but again the hot air gun should help. It's a moot point as I believe you've outsourced this now.
Ps Just to be clear, I am not saying you can't change the bolts in used rods, that's perfectly acceptable. I just didn't follow why anyone would remove new stretch bolts from new rods to replace with non-stretch.

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Thanks for the info...

I had a read up last night regarding crankgear and dissy drive. Hot airgun for off. Heated in oil for on. Sound's reasonable.

As for the stretch bolts? That was not a suggestion mooted by myself. My question (thankfully answered by youself) was using early DG rods in a DJ rebuild.

Items going in later today.

Many thanks.

[ajsimmo]

Coincidentally I am doing a crank this morning. Heated to 50° in the ultrasonic, warmed with the airgun, knocked on with custom tube and "the persuader".

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[maxstu]

Nice. Thanks for the photos and information.

[maxstu]

Casings, crank, cam, a new set of standard crank bearings and two (one early and one set late) sets of conrod handed to Thanet Engine Centre.

https://www.thanetenginecentre.co.uk/

They will dip casings. Then check crankshaft and if correct size add bearings,
then polish camshaft and check conrods reporting back to me measurements with their suggestions what to do. To supply and fit conrod small end bear costs 40 quid each. So may well buy new conrods with bearing fitted and new bolts.

Started giving pistons and sleeves a quick clean to check condition before measuring for dimensions. This will include piston diameter, rings to piston gap clearance (l will be fitting new rings) and sleeve bore dimensions.

Piston no 4 not looking too healthy. What has caused this pitting on the crown and side wall? If piston is put back in sleeve the damage sits between 5 and 7 on a clock face. No damage in sleeve though.




Regards
Stuart