wear to distributor

[Mona]

Still trying to get the drive out. I realised the fuel pump and rod had to be taken off first, eventually.

The drive comes out about 1" and then gets stuck. I've tried moving the crank slightly but it won't shift. 

Do I need to remove the fuel pump base as well? 

E D I T: If I need to remove the fuel pump base, does this mean I will need a replacement? Also, Do I need to remove the studs first, and are there any tricks to this apart from using two nuts? It looks like it will break if I force something under the base.

Thanks 

Pete 

[Mona]

Hi again,

Can anyone confirm if I need to remove the pump base/plinth in order to remove the distributor drive? The drive is 47mm from the casing and I've read it is supposed to be 45mm, so we need to remove the drive to see what is going on.



Or if not, any suggestions for getting a drive out that comes up 1" or so, then jams on something.

Thanks!

Pete

 

[sarran1955]

Hello,

 

Hi again,

Can anyone confirm if I need to remove the pump base/plinth in order to remove the distributor drive? The drive is 47mm from the casing and I've read it is supposed to be 45mm, so we need to remove the drive to see what is going on.




Thanks!

Pete

A bit of a 50/50 one here. You can leave the bakelite base in.... but they do sometimes break, due to enthusiasm, 1/2 way down, so that the pushrod is not well guided. However, getting the broken bit out can be a sketch.
I would suggest a looksee with a led torch..if it is intact, leave well alone.
The part is available.
Cordialement,


 

[Mona]

Hello,

 

Hi again,

Can anyone confirm if I need to remove the pump base/plinth in order to remove the distributor drive? The drive is 47mm from the casing and I've read it is supposed to be 45mm, so we need to remove the drive to see what is going on.




Thanks!

Pete

A bit of a 50/50 one here. You can leave the bakelite base in.... but they do sometimes break, due to enthusiasm, 1/2 way down, so that the pushrod is not well guided. However, getting the broken bit out can be a sketch.
I would suggest a looksee with a led torch..if it is intact, leave well alone.
The part is available.
Cordialement,

Thanks, I read that the most reliable way to remove them is take out the studs and twist rather than pull. I'd rather leave it in place.

But, is that piece getting in the way of removing the dizzy drive?

Thanks

Pete
 

[southernscouse]

I know this sounds to simple but my dizzy lost drive once after going over a speed bump problem was the clamp bracket was twisted after over tighting which caused the dizzy to lift took it off bit of vice and hammer sorted

[Mona]

Thanks for all the help. I discovered that I did have to remove the fuel pump base as well as the rod, or at least raise it a bit.

After removing the studs it twisted out quite easily, and the drive came out easily as well.

There were two shims, I added a 3rd and replaced the drive and new dizzy, tightened the clamp and the rotor arm is not spinning any more. The top of the drive is still 46.3mm, but better than the 47mm it was before. At least it grips.

There were a couple of long, thin but tiny slivers of something wrapped tightly around the two grooves in the base of the drive. Not magnetic. The outer edges of the top of one of the shims had a couple of mm of brassing on it.

The wires on the new dizzy are really short but I don't want to move the coil, so am going to extend them. Is there a particular spec of wire I need? Can I just add a couple of crimped connectors, or should I solder it?

Thanks

Pete

[Robsey]

I think the wire size is 0.5mm csa.

For a proper long lasting repair, I would: -
1- solder all joints.

2 - insulate all joints with heat-shrink sleeving.

3 - Wrap them in looming tape to prevent any chafing or damage to the wires inside.

But I am a bit o.c.d. and prefer to do things properly, otherwise you risk having to do it all again later...
Usually miles from home in the pouring rain and howling wind.

[Mona]

Thanks for the info